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Inside Tom Douglas’s Culinary Camp 2010

What are they doing over there at the Palace Ballroom? Here’s a photo tour.

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All Photos by Jessica Voelker

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This lady is on her tiptoes.

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Douglas teaches a camper to string up the porchetta.

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Porchetta, breakfast of champions.

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“Do you need help?” Leslie Kelly, of the Al Dente blog, asked Douglas during a break. She soon found herself stuffing rabbit and bantering with the chef onstage. Kelly is well-practiced in Douglas-style double-entendre banter: she worked for in one of his kitchens for a spell as part of her research for a book project.

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When I went over to Palace Kitchen to check out the veggie-dish competition, the intensely competing campers were at the plating stage. The purple team placed their fate in the hands of some tasty-looking asparagus.

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This is what that dish looked like in the end. Very beautiful.

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Contestants picked veggies from the selection on this shelf.

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The yellow team is not messing around.

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The blue team is not messing around either.

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The blue team’s dish.

View Slideshow » Illustration: I contemplated stealing one of the red team’s delectable-looking dishes from the table, hungry-dog style.

Every year, Tom Douglas hosts a week-long culinary camp at the Palace Ballroom.

The booze flows from 8:30am onwards. I arrived Monday morning to find the happy campers accessorizing their bloody marys and grazing the offerings of a Nordic breakfast—Swedish pancakes, smoked salmon, and lots of cheese—as they studied their daily challenge: 20 or so different roots set up on a table for them to identify. Over the speaker system, Sheryl Crow crooned loudly about her plans to soak up the sun.

Chef demos are a main attraction at culinary camp. When I stopped by yesterday, the buzz was all about chef Vikram Vij of Vij’s, the famous modern Indian restaurant in Vancouver, B.C. He was scheduled to come by in the afternoon to make savory raw jackfruit, a cream curry with sturgeon, mussels, and baby carrots, and a chicken curry. Other notables teaching this week include Holly Smith of Cafe Juanita, Christina Choi of Nettletown, and Armandino Batali of Salumi.

But the first demo of the day was by Douglas. Just after 9am, he divided the camp into two groups. The first group watched him break down a pig—the 65-pounder in question was a lean little guy, as you’ll see in the slideshow. The second group went next door to Palace Kitchen to compete in a veggie-based cookoff.

Douglas taught the campers how to butcher each cut of the pig, and volunteers came up and carved as well—one very likable little lady stood on tiptoes in order to reach around and lob off a hunk of ham. Douglas talked about butchering knives, “boners” as he calls them. Apparently flexible boners are good for quail, while stiff boners are best for lamb. Larger animals require a butcher boner.

When the poor piggy was all in pieces, Douglas ground up some of the porky bits for stuffing a porchetta —he seasoned it with garlic and fennel pollen, the latter is an amazing, potent ingredient I think you’ll want to buy as soon as possible.

Later, journalist Leslie Kelly joined Douglas on stage to wrap a rabbit in smoked pancetta and stuff it with whole herbs, onion, and lemon. Douglas cooked the rabbit on a rotisserie at 300 degrees F for about an hour. (He mentioned something about a rotisserie making him feel manly and virile.) As with all the dishes at Culinary Camp, the piggy rabbit was passed around for tasting. It was unspeakably delicious—juicy and tender from the rotisserie and augmented greatly by the smoky pancetta.

Meanwhile at Palace Kitchen, the second group of campers had broken into four teams. Their challenge was to create a dish using a selection of ingredients from the pantry—they could augment with animal products like bacon and smoked salmon, but vegetables were the focus. By the time I got there they were already plating, and the energy was Top Chef intense. Check out the end results in the slideshow.

Aside: Here are some random things I learned from Tom Douglas yesterday morning. Jade Garden, the dim sum restaurant in the I.D., is officially too dirty to be okay. “It was gross!” said Douglas of his last visit. If he goes to dim sum in Seattle, he goes to Harbor Village. The Yukon salmon currently on sale at Mutual Fish is the best he’s been able to buy for years. When buying salmon, by the way, the biggest fish are the best. Marcus Samuelsson—the recent Top Chef Masters winner—“could be a model,” he’s so good-looking, and Gordon Ramsey is just as mean in person as on TV.

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Tags: Tom Douglas, Pigs, Pork, Palace Ballroom, Tom Douglas Culinary Camp

Food Events

Inside Tom Douglas Culinary Camp

Just what are they doing over at Palace Ballroom this week?

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This week at Palace Ballroom, Tom Douglas holds court at Culinary Summer Camp, an annual program that includes cooking demos, cook-offs among campers, (with prizes ranging from olive oil to dinner at the Corson Building) and, I learned, a certain amount of drinking before noon.

The campers pay $2,500 for the weeklong program, and local guest chefs like Maria Hines (Tilth), Renee Erickson (Boat Street Café), and Thierry Rautureau (Rovers), show up to teach and taste alongside toquers from San Francisco, Chicago, and Germany.

The TD entourage—his daughter Loretta, Chef Eric Tanaka, and Shelley Lance (coauthor on the cookbooks), among others—is on hand to participate in that teasy, TD-behind-the-scenes banter that Douglas and staff have practically trademarked.

At the session I sat in on this morning, very enthusiastic TD pastry chef Garrett Melkonian demonstrated butterscotch pudding topped with glazed lardons (Bavarian bacon in a maple, scotch, and coca-cola—“preferably Mexican Coke”—syrup).

Douglas himself then detailed the ins-and-outs of boning a duck (oh, behave), offering up useful details along the way—to facilitate confident carving, for instance, a home chef should have a boning knife with a sticky handle.

(If you love double entrendre, by the way, you’d also love culinary camp. At one point TD held two duck breasts he had seared up to his chest. “How do you like my breasts?” He asked “They’re two different sizes,” replied a cheeky camper. “I’ve found that’s often the case.” Bah dum chish!)

Before I reluctantly went back the real world around noon, my stomach full of duck-egg stuffed ravioli, I’d seen one group of campers do a round of Makers Mark shots, several others swigging on champagne, and I myself had the chance to sample a tasty lambrusco: “La Luna” from Cantini Ceci—a semi-sparkling (frizzante) wine served chilled.

I didn’t catch the vintage but it looks like the 2007 retails for $14.99. I’ll be buying that.

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Tags: Tom Douglas, Palace Ballroom, Tom Douglas Culinary Camp,

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