Nosh Pit

A Handy Guide to Seattle Farm Shares

It’s technically spring, which means it’s time to find your CSA soul mate.

Posted by: Anne Larkin on Apr 05, 2012 at 09:00AM 2 Comments

A colorful Oxbow produce box, photo courtesy of their website.

It’s finally that time, when good things start to come to those who have waited (and waited): spring in the Northwest. Rainy mornings turn into brisk sunny afternoons. The ground is speckled with cherry blossom petals. The raincoat gets a little less wear. Patio furniture comes out of hibernation. And CSA (community supported agriculture) shares get snapped up. Springtime means almost-summertime, which means it’s time to start thinking about CSAs, and signing up for a share of the bounty to come.

As more farms offer CSAs, choosing one can be an overwhelming process. Here are a few excellent options.

The Food Nerd’s CSA
The Old Chaser Farm
Vashon Island
$1950 for the season, from mid-May to mid-October
$85 a week
Pick up at the Corson Building or Sitka and Spruce

From the farm that supplies James Beard nominee Matt Dillon’s restaurants, this is the most luxurious CSA. (And we want it.) In the weekly box, members can expect fresh fruits and vegetables, a half-dozen eggs, a dairy product, a loaf of bread, one jar of preserves, and a bottle of wine. Plus there’s an optional $650 meat share: eight chickens, half a pig, and a lamb.

The Restaurateur’s CSA
Oxbow Farm
Carnation
$420-$630 for the season, from mid-June through October, with the option for a winter CSA extension
$20-$30 a week
Pick up at various Seattle locations Thursday through Sunday

Oxbow’s list of restaurants it supplies will clue you in on the quality: Tilth, Walrus and the Carpenter, Café Flora, and Canlis to mention just a few. The 25-acre farm is certified organic and salmon safe, and partners with a collective of eastern Washington farmers to supplement the produce boxes with ripe cherries and peaches at the height of summer.

The City Dweller’s CSA
Amaranth Urban Farm
Rainier Beach and Kent Valley
$784 for the entire summer season, options for 1/2 season shares
$28-$30 a week
Pick up in the city at various locations (including Skelly and the Bean and Pike Brewing)

Amaranth is an urban farm run by Seattleites. The produce in subscribers’ boxes never goes more than 10 miles from where it was grown. (Unless it comes along on a picnic road trip.) Amaranth also serves as a model for other aspiring urban farmers and has opportunities for tours and work shares. (Plus there’s an optional 17-week, $170 flower share.)

The Musician’s CSA
Helsing Junction Farm
Rochester
$360-$666 for the season mid-June to mid-October
$20-$37 a week
Pick up at many Seattle sites as well as in Tacoma, Olympia, Centralia, and Kelso on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays

Helsing Junction farm has been around for twenty years, growing 30 acres of of fruits and vegetables and flowers. The farm sells produce to a few organic markets and restaurants in the northwest and hosts a music festival with an Olympia record company (complete with in-orchard camping) every summer.

The Community Activist’s CSA
Seattle Market Gardens
Seattle
$300-$500 for the season
$15-$25 a week
Pick up at various Seattle locations on Thursdays, Saturdays, or Sundays

Two of the South Seattle P-Patch gardens provide the produce for this CSA, as well as for a weekly farm stand. The gardens are manned by residents, and are part of the P-Patch program that is working to help communities become happier and healthier through the presence of gardens. It’s definitely a feel-good CSA.

The Aspiring Gardener’s CSA
The Root Connection
Woodinville
$692 ($678 if you register by April 15) for the season June-October
$33 a week
There are drop sites in Lynwood and North Seattle on Wednesdays, or pick up at the farm Wednesday through Saturday

Most CSAs proudly advertise that the produce comes to you less than 48 hours after being picked—members can grab their Root Connection share just four hours after its contents were picked. Most members go to the farm to retrieve their share in order to take advantage of the unique Root Connection bonus: free U-picking. This is a more hands-on CSA—no home delivery, no supercentral pick-up spots, but members can go tromp around the farm and harvest their own herbs, flowers, and greens.

The Lazy (but great) CSA-ish CSAs
Full Circle Farms
Year-round, $23-$45 a week
Home delivery

Full Circle is an organic produce delivery service, not a traditional CSA. Full Circle does have farms in Washington, but also sources from warmer places during the winter months. Customizable boxes of produce magically arrive every Friday morning, and subscribers can add in other organic groceries like Essential Baking Co. bread, Theo chocolate, fresh La Pasta fettuccine, and Boat Street pickled figs.

New Roots
Ballard
Year-round, $30-$40 a week
Home delivery

Much like Full Circle, New Roots delivers boxes of organic produce year-round to Seattleites. The company sources primarily from Washington, but also Oregon, California, and Mexico, when the pickings get slim up north. The boxes are somewhat customizable and they get delivered right to the door.

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Tags: Farmers Markets, Matt Dillon, Sitka and Spruce, Canlis, CSAs, Farms, Full Circle Farm, Tilth, Summer Eating, Farm to Table, Summer Plans, Matthew Dillon

Tilth Chef de Cuisine Jason Brzozowy

Maria Hines’s creative second likes his menus with an element of surprise.

Posted by: Jessie Wesley on Mar 30, 2012 at 10:45AM 0 Comments

Brzozowy likes to surprise guests with unique preparations of classic Northwest ingredients.

Growing up in Milwaukee, Jason Brzozowy could often be found cooking breakfast for his family or attempting to make the latest recipe that he found around the house. But it wasn’t until after the University of Wisconsin, (the other UW) didn’t take, that Brzozowy dropped out, got a job as a cook, and rediscovered his love for the kitchen. His chef saw promise and told him, “If you want to do this seriously, you have got to school and get out of Milwaukee.” And so he did.

After completing Le Cordon Bleu in Chicago, a trip to Europe, and a reflection on the harsh Midwest winters, Brzozowy decided it was time for a move to a warmer, West Coast climate. L.A. was not his scene, San Fran was too pricey, and Seattle fit just right. A 44-hour train ride later, Brzozowy settled in for a year at at now-shuttered Qube (which employed many other Seattle notables ), before moving on to Tilth with Iron Chef victor and James Beard–winner Maria Hines.

Becoming the restaurant’s chef de cuisine in 2010 helped Brzozowy push himself creatively. Like his mentor, Brzozowy likes to keep Northwest ingredients front and center, and he says maintain, “an element of surprise, so that it [food] is not quite as it seems.”

The only place he still yearns for in the Midwest? A hot dog joint called Hot Doug’s, which sports a thick duck sausage with foie gras butter, and duck fat–fried waffle fries. Maybe he can somehow sneak a Northwest version of that one onto the menu.

Here, a few questions for Jason Brzozowy.

If you were to open your own restaurant today, what would it serve?

I really enjoy the tasting menu experience. The idea of being in the chef’s hands is comforting to me. I’d like a small space that offers a couple different tasting menu options that change daily. Otherwise, I’d love to open a restaurant featuring wood-fired pizza and cheap beer.

Name your favorite dish at Tilth.

I have a favorite for each season. Currently it’s the sablefish with potato pavé.

What’s great about being chef de cuisine?

Freedom of creativity. Having the ability to influence the cuisine of the restaurant and the growth of our cooks. Creatively, I’ve been able to develop my own style of cooking that just naturally fit within Maria’s philosophy about food. She’s given me the opportunity to develop menus since my first day as chef de cuisine.

Do you have a go-to cookbook for inspiration?

The French Laundry Cookbook has been the most inspirational. My first chef told me to read The Soul of a Chef by Michael Rulhman. That is where I learned about Thomas Keller and The French Laundry. Besides his obvious respect for food, his pursuit of perfection is what really inspired me.

If you had to choose one restaurant for the rest of your days which would it be?

I’ve had incredible meals at Bisato. I always leave inspired, with a smile on my face.

Describe a difficult task you were faced with as chef de cuisine.

After prepping and packing for an event in Los Angeles, we got an email while at the airport informing us that the event had gone from 600 to 900 people. By the time we landed in L.A. it was up to 1200 people regarding the event, there wasn’t a lot that we could do once we found out. We were on vacation at that point. And panicking is never an option. We modified the dish slightly to yield more portions and just tried to enjoy our time in Los Angeles.

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Tags: Maria Hines, Tilth, So Sous Me, Jason Brzozowy

Chef Maria Hines of Tilth on Iron Chef America

(Pssst…you can sample the dinner she created two nights later!)

Posted by: Kathryn Robinson on Jul 21, 2010 at 09:00AM 1 Comments

Photo: Courtesy Food Network

Missed the great Maria Hines on Top Chef Masters last spring?

Not to worry: The chef and owner of Tilth, who has earned kudos from Food and Wine and the James Beard Foundation, which granted her the Best Chef Northwest award last year—goes back to the small screen August 1 for a showdown with Iron Chef Miromoto on the Food Network’s Iron Chef America.

There she’ll whip up a five-course dinner with a secret ingredient we cannot reveal. (Because, ahem, it has not been revealed to us.) But pay $200 and you can sample it in five courses, at a special dinner with wine pairings to be held Tuesday, August 3.

Call NOW…this one will go fast.

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Tags: Celebrity Chefs, Special Dinners, Maria Hines, Iron Chef, Tilth

Indian Summer Supper

Where to enjoy the last of Seattle’s alfresco dining?

Posted by: Kathryn Robinson on Sep 21, 2009 at 05:00AM 0 Comments

Dear Critic,

I can’t let summer go! I know it’s officially leaving us today but the weather forecast for the week isn’t exactly putting me in an autumnal spirit. Where can I dine well this week while soaking up the last of the season’s fresh air?

Signed,
Outdoor Lovin’ Diner

Well O.L.D…

To this diner, Indian Summer begs for outdoor stage sets more rustic and cozy than brazen with sunshine.

Myself, I’ll be heading straight for the leafy courtyard behind Serafina this week, where the heaters are out if you need ’em but the wine and slow-roasted pork belly with sweet corn will do their best to warm you.

The cobbled patio of Tilth has a similarly autumnal feel, abetted by Maria Hines’ to-the-minute seasonality. Which means lobster mushroom risotto and corn-embellished poussin, among other glories.

Or, if you haven’t yet been, beeline it to Bastille, where the line between indoor dining and outdoor dining is happily blurred, thanks to the heated, covered, and just about glassed-in (but awaiting thumbs-up from the bureaucrats) side patio. Somehow steak-frites just taste better in the breeze of a warm fall day.

MORE ADVICE FROM THE CRITIC: Where to grab a quick weeknight dinner.

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Tags: Outdoor Dining, Recommended, Bastille, Tilth, Serafina

Ave Maria!

Tilth Owner Maria Hines Takes James Beard Award

Posted by: Kathryn Robinson on May 05, 2009 at 08:00AM 1 Comments

She was named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs in 2005. The past two years she’s been nominated for the James Beard Award’s Best Chef in the Northwest award. Last year The New York Times’ Frank Bruni named her Wallingford restaurant, Tilth, one of the Top Ten in the country.

And yesterday she took the James Beard prize for the Best Chef in the Northwest.

Hines beat out a slew of other nominees, who boiled down to these finalists: Jason Wilson of Crush; Joseba Jimenez de Jimenez of Harvest Vine and Txori; Ethan Stowell of Union, Tavolata, How To Cook a Wolf, and Anchovies & Olives; and Cathy Whims of Portland’s Nostrana.

Really stiff competition. Really well-deserved. Brava Maria.

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Tags: Maria Hines, Tilth, James Beard Awards

Restaurants Getting Greener

And not just for St. Patrick’s Day

Posted by: Kathryn Robinson on Mar 06, 2009 at 11:00AM 1 Comments

It’s the sustainability, stupid.

Two restaurants that have been all over it are now getting even more are all over it.

At Tilth, all wines-by-the-glass are now eco-friendly. That means organically-grown, sustainable, salmon-safe, and/or certified by LIVE. And chef Maria Hines is now offering a monthly vegan menu; riffs on dishes from the regular menu, but made entirely of organic celery acids and soy proteins.

Kid-ding. It’s just that I forget what vegans can eat. Not much, the dears. But trust the stunningly gifted Ms. Hines to craft their lot into something truly culinary.

(Seriously, it’s worth noting—then applauding—that in these rough economic times when restaurants are attempting to broaden their appeal as widely as possible—"Want some melted cheese and gravy on those fries?"—Hines continues to narrow her purview to encourage an ever-more-responsible way of feeding ourselves. Brava, Maria.)

At Café Flora, which was one of the first restaurants in these parts to think “green,” an even greener remodel will close the place from March 23rd to 25th. It’s going “farmhouse,” to highlight its farm-to-table soul, with an emphasis on recycled materials.

Don’t worry: They’re leaving the atrium alone, and cocktails will be served.

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Tags: Vegetarian/Vegan Whatnot, Farm to Table, Cafe Flora, Maria Hines, Tilth, Sustainability

Now That’s a Progressive Dinner

You have to eat, so you might as well be really, really happy doing it.

Posted by: Seattle Met Staff on Feb 18, 2009 at 10:00AM 2 Comments

Six of Seattle’s top chefs – Maria Hines of Tilth, Joseba Jiménez de Jiménez of The Harvest Vine, Thierry Rautureau of Rover’s, Holly Smith of Café Juanita, John Sundstrom of Lark and Jason Wilson of Crush – are collaborating in the kitchen for a new series of six-course, deluxe dinners that’ll happen monthly, all year long.

Here’s how it works: You go to the scheduled restaurant. The host chef prepares hors d’oeuvres and dessert, and each of the other chefs is responsible for one of the other courses. The six-course meals are $90 per person (tax, tip, and wine are all extra), and reservations can be made by calling each restaurant individually.

Three of the chefs (Smith, Sundstrom, and Ratureau) have been crowned “Best Chef in the Northwest” by the James Beard Foundation, and the rest have been nominated – so it’s basically a chance to have a meal made by a culinary dream team. Schedule below.

Dinner 1: Wednesday, Feb. 25, at Rover’s
Dinner 2: Monday, Mar. 16, at Tilth
Dinner 3: Tuesday, April 14, at Harvest Vine
Dinner 4: Monday, May 18, at Lark
Dinner 5: Monday, Sept. 21, at Café Juanita
Dinner 6: Monday, Oct. 19, at Crush
Dinner 7: Nov. date and location yet to be released

—Katie Zipper

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Tags: Holly Smith, Rover's, Harvest Vine, Joseba Jimenez de Jimenez, Cafe Juanita, Johnathan Sundstrom, Lark, Jason Wilson, Thierry Rautureau, Crush, Tilth, Maria Hines, Progressive Dinner

James Beard Nominees Announced This Morning

Some May Surprise You

Posted by: Kathryn Robinson on Feb 13, 2009 at 09:00AM 0 Comments

The most frothing foodies in the country have been on tenterhooks all winter for the news that quietly landed in my inbox this morning: The James Beard Foundation Awards semifinalists.

And without further ado:

Tom Douglas is the only Seattle restaurateur of 20 national biggies (including Chicago’s Richard Melman and New York’s Drew Nieporent) nominated as Outstanding Restaurateur of the Year.

Tamara Murphy of Brasa is the only Seattle chef of 20 national biggies (including San Francisco’s Michael Mina of Michael Mina and New York’s Tom Colicchio of Craft) nominated as Outstanding Chef of the Year.

Higgins Restaurant and Bar in Portland is the only Pacific Northwest restaurant of 20 national biggies (including Babbo in New York and Greens in San Francisco) nominated as Outstanding Restaurant of the Year.Yes Seattle, you read that right: the only Pacific Northwest restaurant.

Jerry Traunfeld’s Poppy and Justin Neidermeyer’s Cascina Spinasse both showed up among the 28 nominees for Best New Restaurant in the nation.

Rachel Yang of Joule showed up as the only Seattle chef among 22 nominated as Rising Star Chef of the Year. Others include Gabriel Rucker of Portland’s Le Pigeon and Travis Lett of Gjelina in Venice, California.

James Miller of Café Besalu was the sole Seattle representative among 20 nominees (including Mindy Segal of Mindy’s HotChocolate in Chicago and Deanie Fox of Ubuntu in Napa) for Outstanding Pastry Chef.

Canlis was the sole Seattle representative among 20 nominees (including Emeril’s in New Orleans and Picasso at Bellagio in Vegas ) for Outstanding Wine Service.

Both Canlis in Seattle and Café Juanita in Kirkland were nominated in the category of Outstanding Service. Among the 18 others were Daniel in New York City and Alan Wong’s in Honolulu.

For Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional, Northwest nominees were Alex Golitzin of Quilceda Creek in Snohomish, WA; David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyard in Newberg, OR; and Stephen R. McCarthy of Clear Creek Distillery in Portland.

And finally, in the category of Best Chef: Northwest, the entire roster:
Chris Ainsworth, Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen, Walla Walla, WA;Dustan Bristol, Brick 29 Bistro, Nampa, ID;Kevin Davis, Steelhead Diner, Seattle; Matt Dillon, The Corson Building, Seattle;Scott Dolich, Park Kitchen, Portland, OR;Renee Erickson, Boat Street Cafe, Seattle;Mark Fuller, Spring Hill, Seattle;John Gorham, Toro Bravo, Portland, OR;Maria Hines, Tilth, Seattle;Joseba Jiménez de Jiménez, The Harvest Vine, Seattle;Taichi Kitamura, Kappo, Seattle;Daniel Mondok, Sel Gris, Portland, OR;Naomi Pomeroy, Beast, Portland, OR;Andy Ricker, Pok Pok and Whiskey Soda Lounge, Portland, OR;Charlene Rollins, New Sammy’s Cowboy Bistro, Talent, OR;Gabriel Rucker, Le Pigeon, Portland, OR; Scott Staples, Restaurant Zoë, Seattle; Ethan Stowell, Union, Seattle; Jason Wilson, Crush, Seattle; and Cathy Whims, Nostrana, Portland, OR.

Whaddya think, Seattle? Who would you vote for?

Unfortunately I can’t provide any of the smart-ass commentary you’ve come to depend on from The Tablehopper, as I am one of the judges. Finalists will be announced March 23; winners May 4.

Until then…try and get some sleep.

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Tags: Tom Douglas, Mark Fuller, Brasa, Poppy, Justin Neidermeyer, Cascina Spinasse, James Miller, Cafe Besalu, Cafe Juanita, Kevin Davis, Renee Erickson, Boat Street Cafe, Joseba Jimenez de Jimenez, Harvest Vine, Matt Dillon, Jason Wilson, Restaurant Zoe, Joule, Ethan Stowell, Maria Hines, Tilth, Crush, Steelhead Diner, Spring Hill, James Beard Awards, Jerry Traunfeld, Canlis, Rachel Yang, Tamara Murphy, Scott Staples