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Critic's Notebook

New Year’s Eve Dinners

It’s on a Saturday this year, people. Eat out for goodness sake.

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Photo: Courtesy Geoffrey Smith

Ring in the New Year at Luc.

Here are a few of the great options before you. Prices listed are before tax, gratuity, and (if offered) wine pairings.

Rover’s will present 5- and 6-course menus for $120 and $150 per person, respectively, at 5pm and 8pm seatings, respectively; look for fancy French fare like cauliflower veloute with Dungeness crab and black truffle- and butter-poached halibut among the courses.

Down the street, Rover’s fizzier little brother Luc will feature a 3-course menu for $40 per person, discounted oyster plates, and good deals on half-bottles of bubbly. The partying starts early at Luc: these deals will be offered both Friday, December 30 and the Big Night as well.

At Art, the viewy restaurant at the Four Seasons, a three-course menu is served before the dance party in the Art Lounge (5–6:30, $65). Or opt for the six-course Veuve Clicquot Champagne dinner (7:30pm to 9:30pm, $135, additional $55 for Champagne pairing), starring foie gras, black truffle salad, and a choice among five main dishes.

Bastille, the Frenchy toast of Ballard Avenue, will offer a selection of Caviars and gougeres (cheese puffs), along with a roasted bone-in rib eye with truffle jus (among other choices). The wine people will be uncorking various Grower Champagnes; and everyone of age will receive a glass of bubbly at midnight, on the house.

Vegetarians, consider the four herbivorous courses at Café Flora, to be served in the Atrium for $50 a head. Because honestly, how great does a persimmon and quinoa gyoza with quince cake, sautéed wild mushrooms, rapini, and ginger carrot sauce sound?

Little Water Cantina will throw down $8 flights of El Mayor Tequila, Manny himself will pour his own pints for $3, and Mangalitsa carnitas tacos will be the featured menu item. A free glass of Champagne will accompany every dinner, along with iconic views of the Space Needle.

Seven courses of farm-to-table cuisine is on the card at Copperleaf Restaurant, the beaut at Cedarbrook Lodge just off the freeway in SeaTac. For $75 per person ($35 extra for wine pairings) savor courses like truffled eggs, chestnut agnolotti, and your choice of steelhead, lamb saddle, or grass-fed beef. Live music, too.

At Volunteer Park Café, chef Ericka Burke will do her magic on five courses for $75 a head (wine pairings $20 more). It’ll include local oysters with clementine granita, prawn and blood orange salad with fennel and pomegranate seeds, and beef filet with turnip puree and chanterelles. Dinner begins at 7; make reservations.

Go to Staple and Fancy in Ballard for a “fancy” family-style meal, including a variety of Italian appetizers, your choice of meats off chef Ethan Stowell’s roving misto cart, and pastas and desserts. At Tavolata, Stowell’s Italian joint in Ballard, dine on pastas off the regular menu. His Anchovies and Olives on Capitol Hill will feature a $75, five-course feast to include oysters, geoduck, and octopus Bolognese, while a hill away at How to Cook a Wolf on Queen Anne, $75 will buy four courses to include beef tartare, veal short ribs, and chocolate truffle cake.

Cascina Spinasse will do five courses for $75 (wine pairings for $35 or $50 extra), with a revealing twist: You can choose to live in the past (choose the 2011 menu) or the future (with 2012’s). Next door at Artusi, choose to dine off the regular menu of nibbles and cocktails, or opt for a three-course-plus-dessert tasting menu for $40. A flight of bubbles comes extra. No reservations at Artusi.

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Tags: Special Dinners, Critic's Notebook, New Year's Eve 2011

Season's Eatings

Christmas Dinner, Part II

Another register of restaurants serving up holiday cheer.

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Trellis-kirkland

Do Christmas at Trellis in Kirkland.

Barking Frog, 4–9
The Willows Lodge restaurant is prepping a special menu of buttermilk fried quail, steak tartare, oven roasted black cod, grilled Snake River Farms pork chop, Anderson Ranch rack of lamb, and more. Plates range from $8 to $48. Make your reservation online or by telephone at 425-424-2999.

BluWater Bistro, noon–9
The prix fixe bill comes with a squash soup or cranberry-walnut vinaigrette salad starter, two of three main dishes (turkey, prime rib, and ham) served with all the trimmings, and pumpkin pie. $30/adults; $13/children. To reserve a table at the Leschi location call 206-328-2233. For the Greenlake location call 206-524-3991.

Il Bistro, 5–10
The Pike Place Italian resto will be offering a four-course prix fixe menu in addition to their regular menu of gnocchi, lasagne with veal, butternut squash ravioli, veal scaloppini marsala, roasted chicken breast with crispy polenta, and more. Another toastworthy tidbit: the bar stays open until 2am Christmas Day. To reserve a table, go online or call 206-682-3049.

Palisade, noon–8
Palisade offers a straightforward three-course Christmas dinner. For starters, choose between a baby leaf lettuce salad and butternut squash soup garnished with roasted chestnuts; for entrees, order tenderloin with Dungeness crab and hollandaise or brined and smoked Cornish game hen. To reserve a table visit the Palisade website or call 206-285-1000.

Trellis, 6am–10am and noon–8
Trellis will open for breakfast and also a three-course supper. Dinner appetizers include frisee and citrus salad, Dungeness crab bisque, and winter squash soup. Among the entrees are filet mignon, house-made gnocchi with pesto and shaved goat cheese, roasted free-range pheasant, duck breast with watercress and branded cherries, and pan-seared salmon. Then for dessert, choose from a variety of holiday standards, including buche de Noel and rum raisin fruit cake. $59/adults; $24/children. To reserve a table call 425-284-4900 or book it online.

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Tags: Special Dinners, Christmas 2011, Christmas Dinner 2011

Season's Eatings

Christmas Eve Dinners

A sampling of festive feasts at restaurants around Seattle.

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Lark

Celebrate Christmas Eve at Johnathan Sundstrom’s Lark.

Anchovies and Olives, 4:30–9
Ethan Stowell’s Capitol Hill joint offers The Feast of the Seven Fishes, his take on the ostensibly southern Italian tradition of eating seafood on Christmas Eve. Entrees include tagliarini pasta with sea urchin and pangrattato and grilled branzino with roasted Yukon potatoes and salsa verde. To place reservations call 206-838-8080 or reserve online.

Art Restaurant and Lounge, 5–9
Art’s à la carte menu ranges in price from $10 to $42 a plate, and includes such holiday specials as beef short rib soup, shaved smoked duck breast, roasted tom turkey, and plum pudding. Call 206-749-7070 for reservations.

Barking Frog, 5–9
The seasonal menu celebrates holiday flavors with selections like buttermilk fried quail, steak tartare, oven roasted black cod, grilled pork chop, and rack of lamb. For dessert nibble on a pecan tartlet or Guinness gingerbread cake with oatmeal stout ice cream. Plates range from $8 to $48. Make your reservation online or by telephone at 425-424-2999.

Crush, 5–10
Mod bistro Crush will prepare an exotic take on Christmas comfort food: its menu includes hamachi crudo, lamb with coca syrah sauce and smoked olives, and seared sea scallops with black trumpet mushrooms and dates. Also: figgy pudding with toffee ice cream and port wine gel. $88/person. Reserve a table online or call 206-302-7874.

Lark, 5–8
Grab a table at Lark on Capitol Hill for a Nordic-inspired three-course supper. Entrees include bacon-wrapped cod with razor clams, apple vinegar-glazed pork belly, Wagyu shortribs, and farro with red wine salsify. $60/person; wine pairing available. To make a reservation call 206-323-5275.

Metropolitan Grill, 2–11
The Met opens early to serve standard steakhouse fare and seasonal accompaniments like Kurobata bacon with bourbon caramel glaze and four cheese macaroni. But if you’d rather bundle up fireside at home, you can order the Holiday Chateau Dinner Package, a mini-feast for two complete with pre-seasoned chateaubriand, roasted root veggies, mushroom caps, mashed potatoes, and cooking instructions. The dinner package is $95; add wine for an additional $54. Book a table online or call 206-624-3287. To order and arrange delivery of the dinner package call 206-957-3216.

Tilth, 5–10
Tilth is offering up an elegant four-course feast this Eve. Menu highlights include seared Alaskan sablefish garnished with sturgeon caviar, fennel-laden leg of lamb and polenta, and oven-roasted capon with sweet potato puree. End the meal on a sweet note with eggnog panna cotta or bourbon pecan pie. $85/person; wine pairing available for an additional $50. Call 206-633-0801 or reserve a table online.

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Tags: Special Dinners, Christmas 2011, Christmas Dinner 2011

Season's Eatings

Christmas Dinner, Part I

Eat, drink, and be merry at these restaurants preparing holiday spreads.

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Andaluca, 3–7:30
The intimate Mediterranean restaurant stays open on the 25th for a four-course meal. Regular menu options, including saffron-infused paella and osso bucco lamb, are supplemented by the holiday special: braised turkey. Breakfast will also be served at the usual hours, from 7 to noon. Dinner is $40/person. Make a reservation online twenty-four hours in advance; otherwise call 206-382-6999.

Art Restaurant and Lounge, 11–8
Enjoy an elegant four-course meal alongside a wintry panorama of Elliott Bay. Entree highlights include organic roasted turkey, roasted dry aged rib eye, grilled king salmon, and a mushroom crepe with soy bacon for diners who eschew meat. $110/adults; $35/children between 6 and 12. Call 206-749-7070 for reservations.

Bin on the Lake, 1–7
Kirkland’s sleek bistro and wine bar prepares a three-course prix fixe menu with such fanciful plates as smoked duck confit, Kumamoto oysters with pickled cucumber, and cardamom donuts. $55/adults; $23/children 12 and under. Reserve at 425-803-5595.

Boka Kitchen and Bar, noon–8
Starters include a puree of sunchoke soup, pork belly adorned with salted caramel roasted chestnuts, and chicken liver mousse. The main course options are sea scallops and honey-glazed pork loin. The desserts are where it really gets festive: savor a chocolate Yule log or an ice cream trio of gingerbread, eggnog, and candy cane. Plates range from $8 to $29. Make reservations online or by telephone at 206-357-9000.

Copperleaf Restaurant at Cedarbrook Lounge, 5:30–9:30
Copperleaf is touting a quintessentially Northwest five-course tasting menu. Choose among hen garnished with elusive black trumpet mushrooms and Cascade huckleberries; venison with yams, preserved blackberries, and chestnuts; or beef short ribs with house-cured bacon. Finish the meal off with maple sugar ice cream concocted of chocolate, banana mousse, and hazelnut. $75/adults; wine pairings available for an additional $25; a la carte menu available for children. Reserve a table by calling 206-214-4282 or by booking online.

The Georgian, 8–7
The traditional evening feast runs 11–7 and features such standards as roasted turkey with all the trimmings, pork loin, and prime rib with Yorkshire pudding. From 8 to noon, the Garden Room will put on a buffet brunch of ginger bread waffles, eggs benedict, and other breakfast favorites. For dinner: $95/adults; $35/children 6–12. For brunch: $39/adults; $19/children 6–12; children under 6 eat free. For reservations: 206-287-4049.

The Hunt Club at the Sorrento, noon–8
The charmingly classic Hunt Club is plotting an equally classic three-course regale: among the specials are yam and sweet onion soup, butter poached whole prawns, seared pheasant with wild rice, and prime rib with Yukon gold mashed potatoes. Desserts include almond cherry pie and crème brulée. $69/person. Call 206-343-6156 for reservations or reserve online.

Salish Lodge, 2–8
Take in the roaring Snoqualmie Falls as you feast on four courses of hearty holiday fare. On the menu: lobster and Dungeness crab bisque, honey-glazed grilled salmon, herbed gnocchi, and Grand Marnier parfait. $95/adults; $25/children 6–12; free for children 5 and under. Call 1-800-2-SALISH to make reservations.

Urbane, 6:30am–10pm
Ultramodern Urbane will offer up three courses of American Christmas comforts alongside its regular menu from December 22 to the 25. Mains range from confit Cornish hen to field roast with whipped potatoes and mushroom gravy; among the merry desserts are apple cranberry crumble and eggnog ice cream. To book a table call 206-676-4600 or reserve online.

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Tags: Special Dinners, Christmas 2011, Christmas Dinner 2011

On the Menu

Maria Hines’s Golden Beetle Debuts Family Style Dinners

These new shareable multi-course meals run $29 a person.

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Golden Beetle has a new passed-platter menu.

Chef and sometimes bartender Maria Hines is launching an uber trendy family style dinner option at Golden Beetle. The Ballard restaurant will run a special nightly menu Sunday through Thursday that costs $29 a person.

The entire table doesn’t have to sign on for the family style meal, where food is served on large platters and passed around the table, but you do need at least two diners to participate. The current menu includes beef kefta meatballs in tomato sauce on Sundays, mushroom-pinenut ravioli in yogurt sauce on Mondays, braised duck and matzo ball soup on Tuesdays, seafood stew with saffron on Wednesdays and chicken kebabs from the wood oven on Thursdays. Each meal includes an ever-changing array of starters, sides, and a dessert.

Lately family style meals seem about as omnipresent in Seattle restaurants as pork belly, small plates, and those old timey Edison light bulbs. This particular trend, however, helps restaurants fill seats on otherwise quiet nights, and is usually a great value for diners.

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Tags: Special Dinners, Maria Hines, Golden Beetle, Family Style Dining

Happenings

This Year, the Rub with Love Shack Will Stay Open Through Winter

And host monthly pop-ups.

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Rotisserie chickens at Rub with Love Shack.

Tom Douglas’s Rub with Love Shack opted to sideline operations last winter, but this year the rotisserie counter will keep at it year-round, thanks in part to a new series of pop-up dinners.

The theme will rotate with each monthly feast, and the first one takes place this coming Wednesday from 6:30 to 7:30. The focus: American Roots BBQ. Reservations aren’t necessary; rather the idea is to just “walk up and get your plate of food,” says TD marketing manager Katie Okumura. Making up the menu is an $8 barbecue plate served with cornbread, braised greens, and boiled peanuts. You get to choose from several sauces, and you can also order a la carte.

The pop-ups will each highlight a different flavor from Douglas’s line of rubs. Future dates and themes include Chinatown on November 30; South Africa on December 28; on January 25, Tokyo in the Market; and for the February 29 dinner, East India.

The offerings will also grace the happy hour menu at neighboring Seatown for a month following the pop-up. As for the day-to-day offerings at Rub with Love, it will continue to carry several rotisserie meats (half and whole chickens, porchetta-style pork loin, roasted turkey) and made-to-order lunch sandwiches.

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Tags: Special Dinners, Tom Douglas, Seattle Pop-Ups

Pop-Ups

Volunteer Park Cafe to Host Savage Street Cuisine Pop-Up

Rover’s chefs Kalen Schramke and David Howe will cook up street food from various cultures.

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Volunteer Park Cafe.

As Kathryn Robinson hinted last week, Volunteer Park Cafe is indeed planning to put on a new pop-up, named Savage Street Cuisine, confirms a rep for the restaurant. At the helm is Kalen Schramke and David Howe of Rover’s in Madison Park.

The first dinner is slated for Monday, October 24, with others planned for November 14, December 12, and January 30. Menus will rotate for each one and take inspiration from various international cuisines. The bill at the kickoff dinner is based on the food of Southeast Asia.

As Robinson reported, Schramke and Howe are using the pop-up to “test drive their repertoire for a food truck they’re cooking up.”

This is the second time VPC’s Ericka Burke has turned over her kitchen to guest toques. In late June then Cuoco chef Erik Jackson initiated A Square Meal. The bimonthly dinners quickly fizzled after their debut, however, then flatlined when Jackson took a gig at the new Coterie Room in Belltown.

Reservations cost $35 (booze is extra) and can be made on the Volunteer Park Cafe website.

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Tags: Special Dinners, Seattle Pop-Ups, Savage Street Cuisine

Critic’s Notebook

Take the Mundane Out of Monday

Say what you will about our rough economy…it makes for some sweet Monday night restaurant specials. Check these out:

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Sitka and Spruce.

Meatless Mondays at Oddfellows Café + Bar. This is owner Linda Derschang’s bid to save the planet by serving meat-free specials Monday nights. Specials like linguine with sautéed arugula, roasted tomatoes, and pine nuts in beurre blanc. (Pssst: Another Derschang bar, Smith, starts Meatless Mondays later this month.) Carnivores, don’t hyperventilate: Neither joint will abandon meat entirely Mondays.

Taco Mondays at Sitka & Spruce. From 5:30 to 9:30 every Monday, chef and owner Matt Dillon honors the cuisine of employee Alvaro Candela-Najera with traditional Mexican fare, including tacos with yellowfoot mushrooms, tacos with chorizo and flank steak, and tacos with milk-soaked beef belly. All to enjoy with tequila, cerveza, or aguas frescas.

Little Uncle at La Bete. This one’s a pop-up restaurant on La Bete’s night off; the same Thai joint that once popped up (under the name Shophouse) at the late, great Licorous. Don’t reserve, just drop in for a rotating menu of authentic Thai dishes: tonight to include mini curried catfish cakes and pungent shrimp curry with corn, kubocha squash, and chard. Here’s the Little Uncle website.

Moules Monday at Bastille. Back by popular demand, Ballard’s Frenchiest bistro offers Taylor Shellfish Mediterranean mussels every Monday from 5:30pm to 10, for just 14 clams. Ha. (Muscadet goes nicely with mussels, and is on offer Mondays for $6 a glass.)

Wagyu Steak Night at Fresh Bistro. Choose among three different cuts of America’s own Kobe-style beef, choose your side dishes, and enjoy it all (with half-priced wine!) for $15-$18 at West Seattle’s biggest crowd-pleaser.

Happy Mondays at Art of the Table. OK, so we’re not entirely sure what they call their Monday night small plate/happy hour fests, but if you’ve been you know they’re happy. (Chef and owner Dustin Ronspies was one of the first Monday promo practitioners in town.) Look for small sexy plates and wine/beer specials, from 5pm to 10ish.

Savage Street Cuisine at Volunteer Park Café. This one’s still unofficial…but word on the street says a couple of bright lights from Rover’s will colonize Volunteer Park Café’s kitchen for one Monday a month, October through January, to test drive their repertoire for a food truck they’re cooking up. Watch this space for details.

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Tags: Special Dinners, Seattle Pop-Ups, Critic's Notebook

Reservation Watch

Book It: Family Dinner at the Pantry at Delancey

The family-style feasts are selling out fast, so get on in there if you’re going.

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Pantry

Reserve now to experience a Moroccan feast or apple harvest dinner at the Pantry.

Photo: The Pantry at Delancey via Facebook

The Pantry at Delancey’s family dinner—it changes monthly and is held twice per lunar cycle—is sold out in September.

And one of November’s apple harvest dinners is already booked too. (The meal on November 3 has seats remaining.)

Also available: Places at the table during both of October’s Moroccan feasts. Call or email to secure your spot.

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Tags: Special Dinners, Ballard, Molly Wizenberg

Critic's Notebook

The Single Most Dazzling Thing a Restaurateur Can Do

Pioneer a new cuisine? Launch a star chef? Not even close.

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Thierry

Thierry Rautureau of Rover’s.

The single most dazzling thing a restaurateur can do is the daily work of stewarding a business so esteemed by its customers, it measures its life not in years—but decades.

Two bits of news crossed my desk this week. First was the announcement of the upcoming 35-year anniversary party of George’s, the mom-n-pop Greek joint that’s kept Kirkland in gyros and mousakas and spanikopitas since 1976. George Mangouras died a few years back, but his son Pete—raised here, after all—assumed the reins.

Now he invites you to join his four generations of regulars in hoisting a glass to 35 good years: This Saturday, August 27, at 7pm. Greek music, door prizes, new retail line, the works.

Also this weekend comes a quiet farewell from another old friend. Rare is the Seattleite who hasn’t at least once enjoyed the charms of Madison Park Café’s leafy courtyard for brunch, or twilit interior for French bistro food. Karen Binder opened the café in 1979 first as a coffee and tea-room, then as a breakfast and lunch stop, and ultimately as a dinner and brunch house.

Partners came and went, chefs were hired and replaced, concepts shifted and evolved—but through it all Binder kept the charming house restaurant humming: loving up the regulars, welcoming newcomers, keeping chefs in line, stepping in when someone called in sick. The long, thankless, buck-stops-here toil of the committed restaurateur.

On my last meal there, over a moist organic chicken breast with roasted fennel and the same silken French onion soup I’d enjoyed there for years, I wrote this: “The sort of wee neighborhood restaurant, with such a humane understanding of personal service, that restores my faith in the intimate dining room.”

Binder sold the place to the folks who shuttered 94 Stewart in the Pike Place Market; it will re-emerge in coming months as an Italian place, Café Parco. For her part, Binder will stay in the culinary biz, as a caterer and wine-seller. Reportedly, she is pleased with the transition.

Me, I’m wistful. I remember the same feeling of nostalgia and admiration when Adriatica closed, and Saleh al Lago, and Labuznik: longtime culinary standard-bearers that bore the strong imprint of deeply engaged owners and the recognizable mark of careful daily stewardship.

Ask any longtime owner—the Canlises, Tom Douglas of the Dahlia Lounge (and others), Jackie Roberts of the Pink Door, Carmine Smeraldo of Il Terrazzo Carmine, Thierry Rautureau of Rover’s, and more—and they’ll tell you how grueling it is. And how great.

Time for us to tell ’em back. So cheers, Mangouras family. As for Karen Binder, who serves her last Sunday brunch this Sunday the 28th: Merci and well done!

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Tags: Special Dinners, Seattle Restaurant Closings, Critic's Notebook

Special Dinners

Spinasse’s Anniversary Menus: Four Course for $50

Here’s the deal.

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Spinasse features special anniversary menus in August.

There are a lot of dinner deals and special events and so forth, and not all of them are super-exciting or blogworthy.

But four courses for $50 at Spinasse merits a mention.

Here’s the deal: All August, the newly remodel Italian restaurant on Capitol Hill is resurrecting dishes from its first year in business. The occasion? The restaurant is celebrating its third year in business.

A little playing around on Opentable reveals that people who like to eat around 6 or 7 (and let’s face it Seattle, that’s all of you) should make a reservation a week or two in advance. If you’re willing to go early or late, however, or if you like dining out on Monday, you can procrastinate some.

Also, you should probably know that the menu starting August 21 includes a risotto dish with shigoku oysters. Humunuh.

Here is a link to the anniversary menus.

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Tags: Capitol Hill, Special Dinners, Special Menus

Pop-Ups

Hey, It’s Tako Truk!

A street food favorite from the summer of ’09 pops up at Madison Park Conservatory.

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Mahoney (left) and Jarr in front of Tako Truk in the summer of ’09.

More pop-ups!

The long dormant Tako Truk, the food stall Cormac Mahoney and Bryan Jarr used to operate outside Eastlake Zoo Tavern in the warmer months of 2009, is due to resurface during Summer Sunday Socials at Mahoney’s new restaurant, Madison Park Conservatory.

The first one happens June 26 and gets underway at 4. Tako’s signature “green drink” is now spiked (booze was a no-no before, remember?), and on the food front the Conservatory’s website lists guiso and tacos, plus “fried things,” “raw things,” and popcorn (naturally).

Follow @takotruk for updates.

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Tags: Special Dinners, Street Food, Food Trends in Seattle

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