Nosh Pit

Restaurant Shifts and Shakeups

This week: Restaurant Zoë and St. John’s Bar and Eatery open in Capitol Hill, Ballard has a new pizza food cart, and more.

Posted by: Anne Larkin on Feb 17, 2012 at 11:00AM 0 Comments

Restaurant Zoe’s new home at 14th and Union. Photo courtesy of CHS via the Zoe Facebook.

OPENINGS

Restaurant Zoë
Eater Seattle brings word that the former Belltown restaurant opened Wednesday in its new location. Capitol Hill Seattle blog got photos of the woodsy, cozy interior. The varied menu (from foie gras to compressed radishes) is up on the Zoë website.

St. John’s Bar and Eatery
Also in Capitol Hill, this new bar-restaurant (a place for drinking and eating) is softly open as of Wednesday.

Streetzeria
There’s a new food cart in Ballard, says Eater Seattle, run by an ex-hotel manager/food and beverage director from the Midwest and his family, slinging pizzas under the slogan “gourmet pizza at street prices.”

COMING SOON

Eltana
Capitol Hill’s favorite bagelery is expanding to Wallingford. Capitol Hill Seattle reports that come late summer or early fall, the wood-fired bagels we be available at 40th and Stone.

TBD in Georgetown
The owner of 9LB Hammer (and Loretta’s Northwesterner) is planning a 24-hour diner next to the Georgetown bar, says Seattle Magazine. Expect lots of grilled cheese.

BevMo!
West Seattle Blog says that BevMo!, a chain wine and liquor store, is planning a Southcenter storefront, thanks to the new liquor legislation.

Athena’s Gyros
Another food cart goes brick-and-mortar. The gyro truck is moving into the former Zippy’s Giant Burgers space, says West Seattle Blog. The food truck will keep hawking falafel (in fact, it’ll be parked in front of the new storefront starting today) and once the restaurant is up and running, it’ll serve as a commissary for the truck.

Paddy Coyne’s
Just in time for Saint Patrick’s Day, the newest Paddy Coyne’s pub is slated to open at Pier 70 around March 12.

SHIFT CHANGES

Canlis
Rebekah Denn of the Seattle Times has more details on the esteemed still-pretty-new pastry chef. Baruch Ellsworth came to Seattle from San Francisco’s Benu, run by longtime French Laundry chef de cuisine Corey Lee.

Banadir
Jacques Saar, former Africando Africando chef, will soon be cooking at Columbia City Somali restaurant Banadir, says The Stranger.

Madison Park Conservatory
Eater Seattle reports that author Maggie Savarino will be leaving the Conservatory, where she’s been managing front of house and bartending, and returning to consulting work.

Rob Roy
The bartending staff of this Belltown bar is shuffling around a little—Andrew Bohrer is becoming the spirits director for Vinium Importing, making room for Philip Trickey to come back to the bar.

Library Bistro and Bookstore Bar
The Alexis Hotel’s restaurant duo has a muscular new chef, David Hatfield, and a few new menu items.

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Tags: Seattle Restaurant Openings, Paddy Coyne's, Shift Change, Canlis, Rob Roy, Restaurant Zoe, Seattle Restaurant Closings, Madison Park, Bar Openings, Street Food, Closings, St. John's Bar and Eatery

Beware Falling Prices!

Trend of the month: Restaurateurs across town are repositioning themselves a little lower on the food chain.

Posted by: Kathryn Robinson on Feb 13, 2012 at 09:00AM 2 Comments

Le Gourmand’s little downmarket sister Sambar.

Time was not so long ago when a restaurateur who wanted to up the popularity and lower the accessibility threshold of his or her restaurant would simply open a downmarket adjunct next door. Maestros like Bruce Naftaly at the (sob) soon-to-be-late Le Gourmand would open adjacent bars like the (sob) soon-to-be-late Sambar; the lesser then serving as a kind of literal and figurative anteroom to the greater.

Think Serafina and Cicchetti. Flying Fish and On the Fly. Elemental and Elemental Next Door.

These days the trend appears to have morphed into something else: upscale restaurants downscaling themselves.

Back in October the spendy French jewel in the heart of Pike Place Market, Campagne, became the more accessibly priced Marche Bistro and Wine Bar. (It already had a downmarket adjunct, Cafe Campagne.) Last week Spring Hill in West Seattle stunned the gastronomosphere by lowering price and concept to become Ma’ono Fried Chicken and Whisky, in response to a city’s rapturous embrace of Spring Hill’s weekly fried chicken nights.

Now this week, Restaurant Zoe plans to reopen in its new digs on Union, having fled Belltown and big prices to adopt at least three of the biggest trends currently dominating Seattle dining: kitchen garden, Capitol Hill address—and, yes, a “loosened-up” price point.

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Tags: Restaurant Zoe, Restaurant Marche, Serafina, Critic's Notebook, Spring Hill, Cafe Campagne, Flying Fish, Campagne, Sambar, Le Gourmand, Ma'Ono Fried Chicken and Whisky

Five Openings I’m Awaiting in 2012

We’ve celebrated the newcomers and mourned the shuttered. Now let’s look ahead.

Posted by: Allecia Vermillion on Dec 28, 2011 at 01:15PM 0 Comments

This year: hair salon. Next year: majorly anticipated bakery Crumble and Flake.

The Internet masses will be slogging through a few more days of “year in review” posts/articles/tweets before 2011 makes its grand exit. Hence I’d like to take a minute to cast an eye toward the future and point out a few restaurants that have me counting the minutes until next year arrives.

Ethan Stowell’s fast casual undertaking
One of Seattle’s most accomplished (and delightfully sardonic) chefs is still working on a series of fast casual establishments under the name Grubb Brothers (along with wife Angela Stowell and business partner Chad Dale). The first joint to open its doors is likely to be Ballard Pizza Co. some time this spring. But the group’s restaurant plans also include steak frites, fried chicken, sandwiches, and more. Hence whatever spot becomes a reality first, chances are I’ll be waiting outside the front window, chanting “o-pen, o-pen, o-pen!” like the ladies in those ghastly old Mervyn’s ads. Hey, nobody accused me of having an active social life. Estimated open: Majorly TBD.

The return of Restaurant Zoe
There is some fast and furious buildout happening over at the former La Panzanella bakery, now home to Oola Distillery and soon Restaurant Zoe (also, Chinese restaurant Lucky 8). Scott Staples’s first restaurant is planning to reopen mid-January in its new Capitol Hill digs. It shouldn’t take a relocation to get diners excited about an enduring favorite. But, nonetheless…excitement. Estimated open: January.

Skelly and the Bean
Zephyr Paquette’s forthcoming Capitol Hill restaurant is many things: an incubator. A community space. An ambitious experiment in membership-based funding. So it’s easy to get sidetracked from the fact that Paquette is a pretty badass cook. And said badassery will be in effect Wednesday through Saturday, when Paquette will be in the kitchen and her multi-faceted space is a restaurant, plain and simple. Estimated opening: Late January or early February.

Crumble and Flake
Pastry chef Neil Robertson garnered a loyal following at Canlis, cemented it at MistralKitchen, and now he’s adding to the roster of great food and drink spots creeping down Olive Way. What’s currently a hair salon will soon become Crumble and Flake, a tiny shop that Robertson will fill with a takeout counter and whatever cream puffs, cookies, and croissaints he feels like conjuring up in the tiny shop’s kitchen. Estimated open: April-ish.

Queen of Ballard
Don’t get me wrong, I’m plenty interested in Manhattan Drugs, the Capitol Hill spot from Laura Olson and Chris Pardo, that’s probably opening in the very first days of 2012 (in other words, late next week). But the small plate Scandinavian restaurant the couple is planning over in Ballard puts an interesting spin on the neighborhood’s heritage and will be unlike any other place I can think of in town. Estimated open: January or February.

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Tags: Seattle Restaurant Openings, Restaurant Zoe, Ethan Stowell, Queen of Norway, Skelly and the Bean, Ballard Pizza Co, Crumble and Flake, Zephyr Paquette, Neil Robertson

Local 360—Belltown’s Melrose Market—Set to Open in December.

A former Hunt Club chef will cook at the casual cafe.

Posted by: Jessica Voelker on Oct 21, 2010 at 01:24PM 2 Comments

Local 360 takes over the former Flying Fish space at 1st and Bell.

Belltown has experienced a full-on dining desertion these past few years, and lately there have been rumblings that Restaurant Zoe owners Scott and Heather Staples wouldn’t mind a move out of the neighborhood.

So I loved learning (via the Belltown Messenger) about Local 360, the new Melrose Market-style project in the old Flying Fish location at First and Bell.

Eager to know more, I spoke with Kerri Harrop, who is working on the project with owner Marcus Charles, just as she did the reopening of the Crocodile two years ago. (In addition to being a partner at the Croc, Charles own Juju nearby). Harrop says the name Local 360 comes from the goal to source 90 percent of ingredients from within 360 miles of Seattle. “It’s not just a marketing idea,” she says, stressing that the restaurant will be careful not to make claims of “local” or “organic” when they are unfounded.

The food is casual American comfort. “We won’t have a $6 burger but we’re not going to have a $20 burger either,” says Harrop. The chef is Chris Jensen, who was the interim chef at the Sorrento Hotel’s Hunt Club before Matthew Mina took over. (With unfortunate results, he has since left).

It sounds a lot more low key that the fussy-yet-fantastic Sitka and Spruce, the restaurant anchor at Melrose Market. But that could be a good thing. Much more than a new fine-dining destination or, Lord help us, another nightclub, Belltown needs a community hub that’s affordable and comfortable and founded on the principles of good food. And it sounds like it’s getting one.

Flanking the restaurant will be what Harrop calls “the mercantile,” where a butcher, cheesemonger, bakery, and pickling/condiment shop are planned. (Harrop did not yet have a list of vendors, I’ll share that as soon as I get it).

December 1st is the tentative opening date.

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Tags: New Seattle Restaurants, Seattle Restaurant Openings, Belltown, Restaurant Zoe

Lombardi’s Closing

Ballard ristorante to be replaced by gastropub. Guess which one?

Posted by: Kathryn Robinson on Sep 20, 2010 at 08:00AM 0 Comments

Word came Friday that Lombardi’s in Ballard will close October 9. Sibs in Issaquah and Everett will remain open, under the helmsmanship of owner Diane Symms’ daughter, Kerri Lonergan.

For 22 years the Ballard Lombardi’s has been holding down the corner of 22nd and Market—a feat of endurance for any restaurateur, given the day-in-day-out rigors of the job—so whether or not you ever darkened its door, a round of applause is in order.

Next for that epicentral space? From her blog:

“Symms made the decision to close the Ballard Lombardi’s after being approached by another local entrepreneur. She can’t reveal much about the transaction but said the new owner has deep roots in the Seattle restaurant community. The new restaurant will be a “gastro pub” and expects to be open in early December. Details on the new restaurant will be announced by its owner in the coming weeks.”

Gastropub, eh? She’s waxing discreet and nobody’s told us nothin’. But it seems reasonable to speculate that gastropub + deep roots in Seattle community points either to Scott Staples (owner of Quinn’s Gastropub and Restaurant Zoe and, whispers have it, a soon-to-open burgerie in Fremont) or Dana Tough and Brian McCracken (owners of Spur Gastropub), both of whom have been rather openly shopping for spaces.

We’ll let you know.

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Tags: Ballard, Seattle Restaurant Closings, Restaurant Zoe, Quinn's Pub, Spur Gastropub, Lombardi's

How Many Restaurants in Seattle are Named for Family Members?

Bet you can think of a few we missed

Posted by: Kathryn Robinson on Jun 28, 2010 at 08:00AM 6 Comments

Meet Marjorie!

So I was sitting in the brand new Union Street Marjorie the other night, unfairly early for an actual review—though I couldn’t help noticing that its two swoony signatures from the charming gypsylike original Marjorie in Belltown, Miss Marjorie’s Plaintain Chips with grilled pineapple salsa and the freakishly divine Bourbon caramel bread pudding are still on offer, and still terrific—and it occurred to me that this restaurant, named for owner Donna Moodie’s mother, is in good company around town.

Etta’s Seafood is named for owner Tom Douglas’ daughter. Another Douglas restaurant, Lola honors his wife Jackie’s Greek grandmother.

Thierry Rautureau’s latest, the swanky little bistro Luc, is an homage to his father, a bulldozer driver from Brittany. (And no, Rautureau’s original restaurant Rover’s was not named after his dog—he inherited the name from the former owner.)

Restaurant Zoe and Quinn’s Pub are owner Scott Staples’ love notes to his kids.

Carmelita, the beautiful vegetarian sensation on Phinney Ridge? Co-owner’s mother.

Are there others?

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Tags: Restaurant Names, Etta's, Lola, Restaurant Zoe, Quinn's Pub, Marjorie, Carmelita, Luc

Friday Night Specials: October 30

What’s cooking tonight at Restaurant Zoë, Ponti Seafood Grill, and Szmania’s.

Posted by: Leah Kraus on Oct 30, 2009 at 09:00AM 1 Comments

Photo: Courtesy of Restaurant Zoë, photograph by Tom Barwick

Restaurant Zoë: Thoughtful Mediterranean influences in Belltown.

Before you begin that Halloween candy binge, fill up on something with a little more flavor and a lot less sugar.

At Restaurant Zoë start with an appetizer of Washington poussin—chicken that’s less than 4 weeks old—served with potatoes, caper berries, tomato confit, and parsely pea stew for $16. Then try Qualicum beach scallops, brussel sprouts, candied winter squash, parsnip puree, and hazelnut vinaigrette for $29.

Ponti Seafood Grill is serving seared Hawaiian albacore with roasted spaghetti squash, carrot ginger puree, and basil sambal pesto for $21.

Up in Magnolia, German eatery Szmania’s offers a $32 beef tenderloin with sweet potato pancake, black peppercorn, and shallot con fit.


Find more recommendations from our restaurant critic HERE.

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Tags: Restaurant Zoe, Ponti Seafood Grill, Szmania's, Friday Night Specials

James Beard Nominees Announced This Morning

Some May Surprise You

Posted by: Kathryn Robinson on Feb 13, 2009 at 09:00AM 0 Comments

The most frothing foodies in the country have been on tenterhooks all winter for the news that quietly landed in my inbox this morning: The James Beard Foundation Awards semifinalists.

And without further ado:

Tom Douglas is the only Seattle restaurateur of 20 national biggies (including Chicago’s Richard Melman and New York’s Drew Nieporent) nominated as Outstanding Restaurateur of the Year.

Tamara Murphy of Brasa is the only Seattle chef of 20 national biggies (including San Francisco’s Michael Mina of Michael Mina and New York’s Tom Colicchio of Craft) nominated as Outstanding Chef of the Year.

Higgins Restaurant and Bar in Portland is the only Pacific Northwest restaurant of 20 national biggies (including Babbo in New York and Greens in San Francisco) nominated as Outstanding Restaurant of the Year.Yes Seattle, you read that right: the only Pacific Northwest restaurant.

Jerry Traunfeld’s Poppy and Justin Neidermeyer’s Cascina Spinasse both showed up among the 28 nominees for Best New Restaurant in the nation.

Rachel Yang of Joule showed up as the only Seattle chef among 22 nominated as Rising Star Chef of the Year. Others include Gabriel Rucker of Portland’s Le Pigeon and Travis Lett of Gjelina in Venice, California.

James Miller of Café Besalu was the sole Seattle representative among 20 nominees (including Mindy Segal of Mindy’s HotChocolate in Chicago and Deanie Fox of Ubuntu in Napa) for Outstanding Pastry Chef.

Canlis was the sole Seattle representative among 20 nominees (including Emeril’s in New Orleans and Picasso at Bellagio in Vegas ) for Outstanding Wine Service.

Both Canlis in Seattle and Café Juanita in Kirkland were nominated in the category of Outstanding Service. Among the 18 others were Daniel in New York City and Alan Wong’s in Honolulu.

For Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional, Northwest nominees were Alex Golitzin of Quilceda Creek in Snohomish, WA; David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyard in Newberg, OR; and Stephen R. McCarthy of Clear Creek Distillery in Portland.

And finally, in the category of Best Chef: Northwest, the entire roster:
Chris Ainsworth, Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen, Walla Walla, WA;Dustan Bristol, Brick 29 Bistro, Nampa, ID;Kevin Davis, Steelhead Diner, Seattle; Matt Dillon, The Corson Building, Seattle;Scott Dolich, Park Kitchen, Portland, OR;Renee Erickson, Boat Street Cafe, Seattle;Mark Fuller, Spring Hill, Seattle;John Gorham, Toro Bravo, Portland, OR;Maria Hines, Tilth, Seattle;Joseba Jiménez de Jiménez, The Harvest Vine, Seattle;Taichi Kitamura, Kappo, Seattle;Daniel Mondok, Sel Gris, Portland, OR;Naomi Pomeroy, Beast, Portland, OR;Andy Ricker, Pok Pok and Whiskey Soda Lounge, Portland, OR;Charlene Rollins, New Sammy’s Cowboy Bistro, Talent, OR;Gabriel Rucker, Le Pigeon, Portland, OR; Scott Staples, Restaurant Zoë, Seattle; Ethan Stowell, Union, Seattle; Jason Wilson, Crush, Seattle; and Cathy Whims, Nostrana, Portland, OR.

Whaddya think, Seattle? Who would you vote for?

Unfortunately I can’t provide any of the smart-ass commentary you’ve come to depend on from The Tablehopper, as I am one of the judges. Finalists will be announced March 23; winners May 4.

Until then…try and get some sleep.

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Tags: Tom Douglas, Mark Fuller, Brasa, Poppy, Justin Neidermeyer, Cascina Spinasse, James Miller, Cafe Besalu, Cafe Juanita, Kevin Davis, Renee Erickson, Boat Street Cafe, Joseba Jimenez de Jimenez, Harvest Vine, Matt Dillon, Jason Wilson, Restaurant Zoe, Joule, Ethan Stowell, Maria Hines, Tilth, Crush, Steelhead Diner, Spring Hill, James Beard Awards, Jerry Traunfeld, Canlis, Rachel Yang, Tamara Murphy, Scott Staples