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No Cochon 555 for Seattle

The annual ultimate pig-out bypasses the Emerald City in 2012, hits up Portland instead.

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Tracy Smaciarz from Heritage Meats at the 2011 Seattle stop of Cochon 555.

Seattleites, like any gastro-centric people, love their pork, but next year they’ll have to do without the porcine equivalent of Christmas, Cochon 555.

Cochon 555 is a cross-country event in which five local chefs are tasked with turning a sizable heritage hog into an assortment of piggy treats. Guests sample the preparations while sipping pours from a quintet of local wineries. Judges then judge them. It’s a fun, delicious affair Seattle’s almost always a part of, so natch it was a suprise when the 2012 roster came out with no mention of us.

Cochon rep Lori Lefevre Wells says there’s no particular reason behind the snub, just that the tour tries to mix things up each year. “It’s always a tough decision when we rotate in new cities,” she says. Memphis and Miami are those first-timers, and Portland is a pit stop once again after being bypassed in 2011, presumably because of the brawl that broke out there in 2010. But: “We love Seattle, it’s always been a big supporter of the tour,” assured Lefevre Wells. “I’m very confident that we will get back there again.”

Meantime, relive the gory days with this slideshow from last year’s Cochon 555.

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Tags: Food Events and Festivals, Pork

Seattle Beer Week

Seattle Beer Week: Best of the Beer Dinners

Some of Seattle’s top restaurants have paired up with brewers for multi-course feasts in honor of SBW. Reserve now.

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Hope you are hungry: During Beer Week, Seattle restaurants pair up with craft brewers for multi-course pairing feasts.

We’ve been covering the drinking events over on Sauced, but our city’s restaurants are also playing host to a ton of beer-pairing dinners in honor of Seattle Beer Week—here are the five that sounded most promising to us.

Most of the meals are comprised of five courses, each course paired with a different beer. We called around to get as many menu details as possible, but some of the restaurants had yet to finalize their food.

This Saturday, May 21 Stone Brewing will be at Elemental at Gasworks for a five-course beer pairing dinner from 6 to 8pm. It costs $75 per person and reservations are recommended. The menu hasn’t been set.

On Monday, May 23: Crow hosts Pike Brewing for a five-course meal from 6 to 8pm, which runs $50 per person. The menu includes housemade pretzels, carved porchetta, and spring carrot cake for dessert.

Also on the 23rd: SoDo’s Epic Ales heads to Tilikum Place Cafe for a meal that begins at 6:30pm. That’s $70 per person.

Another meal with Cali’s Stone Brewing: Stone co-hosts a dinner at Volunteer Park Cafe that will take place starting at 7pm on Thursday, May 26 and costs $85 per person.

Here are the pairings: citrus seafood ceviche and Stone Levitation Ale; potato gnocchi, truffle fonduta, and shiitake mushrooms and Stone Pale Ale; sea bass in curried beer broth and Stone IPA; spicy braised pork spareribs and Stone Sublimely Self-Righteous Ale; braised oxtail with bone marrow mashed potatoes and Green Flash/Pizza Port Carlsbad/Stone Highway 78 Scotch Ale; toffee browned butter brownies with vanilla ice cream and brûléed banana and Stone Old Guardian BELGO Barley Wine.

On Friday May 27, Portland’s Hopworks Urban Brewery pairs up with Trellis in Kirkland for a multi-course pork-centric dinner that begins at 6:30pm (expect to wrap up around 9:30pm).

It’s $65 per person and the dessert course is an ice cream float with a Hopworks stout as an accompaniment. Not a bad way to end an evening.

Check SBW’s website for a complete list of events.

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Tags: Beer, Special Dinners, Beer and Food Pairing, Pork, Volunteer Park Cafe, Special Menu,

Get piggy with it

Slideshow: Cochon 555

Our vegetarian photographer braved the porkiest event of the year to bring you these pig-a-licious party pics.

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Tracy Smaciarz from Heritage Meats cuts it up the VIP room.

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Tracy Smaciarz from Heritage Meats cuts it up the VIP room.

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Elderberry liqueur and pork: together at last. St. Germain samples in the VIP room.

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Hama Hama oysters in the VIP room.

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Carr Valley ‘Snow White Goat’ cheese in the VIP room.

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The K Vintners table with bacon from Snake River Farms.

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Chris Hansen of Mosaic Farms holds a photo of his Red Wattle pigs eating their last meal—butternut and delicata squashes.

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Pig heads about to be carved in the butcher competition.

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Cuts from butcher competitor Josh Graves (of Olympic Provisions in Portland).

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A sample from Lark chef John Sundstrom’s winning dishes.

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Chefs prep a dish for competitor Ethan Stowell.

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Competing chef Rachel Yang pulls pork from a cooked pig.

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Yang’s table.

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Farmstead Meat butcher Brandon Sheard cuts up a Newman Farm Berkshire pig during the butcher competition.

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Pork doughnuts from competing chef Ethan Stowell.

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Servers worked the crowds with glasses full of bacon.

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Guests paid $125 for general admission tickets to the event, VIP spots went for $175.

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A dish from Café Juanita’s Holly Smith.

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An attendee carries a cut won from the Neighborhood Farmers Market Alliance pork raffle.

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The “East vs. West” pig roast pigs: Adam Stevenson—‘Earth and Ocean
Porcelet de lait’ from St. Canut Farms and D’Artagnan.

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Talking pig.

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Dessert chicharrones—fried pork skin with powdered sugar and chocolate sauce—are the perfect ending to any proper pig-out.

Poor Lucas Anderson.

The guy is a vegetarian, for crying out loud, and I assigned him to shoot the Seattle stop of Cochon 555, a 10-city event that tasks local chefs with creating dishes using the many bits that make up one 175-pound heritage oinker.

Held on February 20th at the downtown Westin, the Seattle stop pitted five local chefs (John Sundstrom of Lark, Holly Smith of Café Juanita, Rachel Yang of Joule and Revel, Jason Stratton of Spinasse, and Ethan Stowell of Staple & Fancy Mercantile) against each other.

Attendees, along with a panel of judges, cast votes for the chef they felt made the best dishes—last year, Chef Jonathan Sundstrom won first place for his piggy treats. This year the award went to…Jonathan Sundstrom. And so in June, Sundstrom will once again travel to the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen where he’ll compete against winning chefs from each of the cities along the tour. Sundstrom lost out to Washington D.C.’s David Varley in 2010, but we have high hopes for him this time around.

Click on the slideshow for photos of last night’s pig-out.

All photos by totally traumatized photographer Lucas Anderson.

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Tags: Downtown, Tastings and Classes, Chefs, Food Events and Festivals, Slideshow, Pork, Seattle Chefs

Inside Tom Douglas’s Culinary Camp 2010

What are they doing over there at the Palace Ballroom? Here’s a photo tour.

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All Photos by Jessica Voelker

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This lady is on her tiptoes.

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Douglas teaches a camper to string up the porchetta.

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Porchetta, breakfast of champions.

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“Do you need help?” Leslie Kelly, of the Al Dente blog, asked Douglas during a break. She soon found herself stuffing rabbit and bantering with the chef onstage. Kelly is well-practiced in Douglas-style double-entendre banter: she worked for in one of his kitchens for a spell as part of her research for a book project.

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When I went over to Palace Kitchen to check out the veggie-dish competition, the intensely competing campers were at the plating stage. The purple team placed their fate in the hands of some tasty-looking asparagus.

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This is what that dish looked like in the end. Very beautiful.

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Contestants picked veggies from the selection on this shelf.

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The yellow team is not messing around.

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The blue team is not messing around either.

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The blue team’s dish.

View Slideshow » Illustration: I contemplated stealing one of the red team’s delectable-looking dishes from the table, hungry-dog style.

Every year, Tom Douglas hosts a week-long culinary camp at the Palace Ballroom.

The booze flows from 8:30am onwards. I arrived Monday morning to find the happy campers accessorizing their bloody marys and grazing the offerings of a Nordic breakfast—Swedish pancakes, smoked salmon, and lots of cheese—as they studied their daily challenge: 20 or so different roots set up on a table for them to identify. Over the speaker system, Sheryl Crow crooned loudly about her plans to soak up the sun.

Chef demos are a main attraction at culinary camp. When I stopped by yesterday, the buzz was all about chef Vikram Vij of Vij’s, the famous modern Indian restaurant in Vancouver, B.C. He was scheduled to come by in the afternoon to make savory raw jackfruit, a cream curry with sturgeon, mussels, and baby carrots, and a chicken curry. Other notables teaching this week include Holly Smith of Cafe Juanita, Christina Choi of Nettletown, and Armandino Batali of Salumi.

But the first demo of the day was by Douglas. Just after 9am, he divided the camp into two groups. The first group watched him break down a pig—the 65-pounder in question was a lean little guy, as you’ll see in the slideshow. The second group went next door to Palace Kitchen to compete in a veggie-based cookoff.

Douglas taught the campers how to butcher each cut of the pig, and volunteers came up and carved as well—one very likable little lady stood on tiptoes in order to reach around and lob off a hunk of ham. Douglas talked about butchering knives, “boners” as he calls them. Apparently flexible boners are good for quail, while stiff boners are best for lamb. Larger animals require a butcher boner.

When the poor piggy was all in pieces, Douglas ground up some of the porky bits for stuffing a porchetta —he seasoned it with garlic and fennel pollen, the latter is an amazing, potent ingredient I think you’ll want to buy as soon as possible.

Later, journalist Leslie Kelly joined Douglas on stage to wrap a rabbit in smoked pancetta and stuff it with whole herbs, onion, and lemon. Douglas cooked the rabbit on a rotisserie at 300 degrees F for about an hour. (He mentioned something about a rotisserie making him feel manly and virile.) As with all the dishes at Culinary Camp, the piggy rabbit was passed around for tasting. It was unspeakably delicious—juicy and tender from the rotisserie and augmented greatly by the smoky pancetta.

Meanwhile at Palace Kitchen, the second group of campers had broken into four teams. Their challenge was to create a dish using a selection of ingredients from the pantry—they could augment with animal products like bacon and smoked salmon, but vegetables were the focus. By the time I got there they were already plating, and the energy was Top Chef intense. Check out the end results in the slideshow.

Aside: Here are some random things I learned from Tom Douglas yesterday morning. Jade Garden, the dim sum restaurant in the I.D., is officially too dirty to be okay. “It was gross!” said Douglas of his last visit. If he goes to dim sum in Seattle, he goes to Harbor Village. The Yukon salmon currently on sale at Mutual Fish is the best he’s been able to buy for years. When buying salmon, by the way, the biggest fish are the best. Marcus Samuelsson—the recent Top Chef Masters winner—“could be a model,” he’s so good-looking, and Gordon Ramsey is just as mean in person as on TV.

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Tags: Tom Douglas, Pigs, Pork, Palace Ballroom, Tom Douglas Culinary Camp

Gabriel Claycamp Leaves the Swinery

The butcher shop and lunch counter will continue to operate at its West Seattle location.

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The Swinery, now with 100 percent less Claycamp.

Well, folks, never a dull day in Gabetown. Gabriel Claycamp, the former Culinary Communion chef, has left the second iteration of his butcher shop, the Swinery. Claycamp, who was backed by an investor/partner he claims is more than 300 thousand dollars invested in the business, says he wasn’t being paid for his work at the West Seattle chop shop. Claycamp says he plans to seek employment as a cook or, if possible, a chef. He says he’s had teaching offers as well.

I spoke with a source at the Swinery who asked not to be named but told me that the West Seattle butcher shop had no plans to close and that the three remaining employees are staying put. “Same hours, same everything,” said the source, adding, “it’s a good change, a step in the right direction.”

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Tags: Restaurant News, Butchers, Pigs, Pork, Gabriel Claycamp, Dining-World Drama

New in West Seattle

Inner Sanctum of the Temple of Porcine Love

Is that a great restaurant name or WHAT?

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Pigs, amazing pigs

Inner Sanctum of the Temple of Porcine Love opened a couple of weeks ago as part of Gabe Claycamp’s and Heidi Kenyon’s all-natural butcher shop/charcuterie in West Seattle, The Swinery.

Claycamp and Kenyon you know. They’re the couple who in recent years have dominated the blogosphere with the roller-coaster ride of their adventures in culinary renown: their hip “underground” restaurant Gypsy, their cooking school Culinary Communion, its relocation to shiny new digs on Beacon Hill, the city’s abrupt closure of parts of the operation, the crash and burn of the whole thing, then The Swinery’s launch last fall in West Seattle.

These two have generated more, ahem, opinion than the ref from last week’s US-Slovenia game.

Us, we’re just in it for the pig. Because Part Two of that launch brings brunch and lunch to the property, in the form of lard biscuits with rosemary sausage gravy, and bacon waffles, and pork belly hash. Thundering Hooves chuck-steak burgers piled with cheese and caramelized onions, pulled-pork sandwiches, and fries made with tallow (the beef renderings that make fries taste so good).

There’s no forgetting you’re at a place called The Swinery.

Anyway, they’re having a party: Friday, June 25, from 4pm to 7pm. Or just come for lunch (Tues-Fri, 11am to 3:30pm) or brunch (Sat-Sun 10am-2pm).

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Tags: New Seattle Restaurants, Brunch, Lunch, Pigs, Bacon, Pork, Gabriel Claycamp

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