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Critic's Notebook

Gettin’ Piggy With It

Seattle restaurateurs love naming their establishments after animals—but one beast tops them all.

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Owner Kurt Beecher Dammeier poses with the Maximus Minimus pig.

The Seattle area has restaurants whose names honor creatures many and various: there’s an insect (Golden Beetle), a horse (Brave Horse Tavern), a couple of birds (Lark, Crow), a handful of sea creatures (Chinook’s, Steelhead Diner, Flying Fish, Seastar, Kingfish Café) an eel (Bisato), a moose (Señor Moose Cafe) and at least two joints that appear to reference the devastating social problem that is caprine inebriation (Fainting Goat Gelato, Stumbling Goat Bistro).

There’s even the generic: La Bete.

But the recent launch of Blind Pig Bistro in Eastlake reminds us that the far-and-away top, er—dog among restaurant animals is the one made out of bacon. Consider: Pig Iron BBQ, Three Pigs, the Honey Pig, Inner Sanctum of the Temple of Porcine Love at the Swinery, and the late, great Pig ‘n’ Whistle. El Puerco Lloron honors pigs in Spanish; Lecosho in Chinook. (Place Pigalle has a lot more to do with prostitutes than pigs, but that’s academic.)

We even have a mobile restaurant shaped like a pig: the Beecher’s Cheese people’s Maximus/Minumus.

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Tags: Pigs, Restaurant Names, Critic's Notebook, Blind Pig Bistro

Cochon 555 Returns to Seattle

Get piggy with it on February 20.

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Pork lovers go crazy at Cochon 555.

Every year, the Cochon 555 hog fest rolls into Seattle. There are 10 stops total, it seems the pig tour is skipping Portland this time. That’s no surprise after last year, when—paging Fred Armisen —Cochon’s founder wound up in a street brawl with a McMinnville chef.

The chef was upset that one of the pigs cooked that day had been raised in Iowa.

Moving on. At each event, five chefs have their way with, by which I mean prepare dishes using, one 150-pound heritage hog. The dishes are paired with wines from five different winemakers.

This year’s list of chefs is pretty great, I must say. It’s Lark’s Johnathan Sundstrom, Holly Smith of Cafe Juanita, Rachel Yang from Joule and Revel, Ethan Stowell from Staple and Fancy, and Jason Stratton of Spinasse.

Wineries include Syncline, Elk Cove Vineyards, K Vinters, and Scott Paul.

Cochon 555 tickets cost $125 for general admission (begins at 5pm) and $175 for VIP (begins at 3:30pm).

The event takes place at the Westin Hotel on February 20.

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Tags: Wine and Food Pairings, Pigs, Bacon, Seattle Chefs

Inside Tom Douglas’s Culinary Camp 2010

What are they doing over there at the Palace Ballroom? Here’s a photo tour.

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All Photos by Jessica Voelker

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This lady is on her tiptoes.

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Douglas teaches a camper to string up the porchetta.

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Porchetta, breakfast of champions.

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“Do you need help?” Leslie Kelly, of the Al Dente blog, asked Douglas during a break. She soon found herself stuffing rabbit and bantering with the chef onstage. Kelly is well-practiced in Douglas-style double-entendre banter: she worked for in one of his kitchens for a spell as part of her research for a book project.

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When I went over to Palace Kitchen to check out the veggie-dish competition, the intensely competing campers were at the plating stage. The purple team placed their fate in the hands of some tasty-looking asparagus.

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This is what that dish looked like in the end. Very beautiful.

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Contestants picked veggies from the selection on this shelf.

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The yellow team is not messing around.

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The blue team is not messing around either.

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The blue team’s dish.

View Slideshow » Illustration: I contemplated stealing one of the red team’s delectable-looking dishes from the table, hungry-dog style.

Every year, Tom Douglas hosts a week-long culinary camp at the Palace Ballroom.

The booze flows from 8:30am onwards. I arrived Monday morning to find the happy campers accessorizing their bloody marys and grazing the offerings of a Nordic breakfast—Swedish pancakes, smoked salmon, and lots of cheese—as they studied their daily challenge: 20 or so different roots set up on a table for them to identify. Over the speaker system, Sheryl Crow crooned loudly about her plans to soak up the sun.

Chef demos are a main attraction at culinary camp. When I stopped by yesterday, the buzz was all about chef Vikram Vij of Vij’s, the famous modern Indian restaurant in Vancouver, B.C. He was scheduled to come by in the afternoon to make savory raw jackfruit, a cream curry with sturgeon, mussels, and baby carrots, and a chicken curry. Other notables teaching this week include Holly Smith of Cafe Juanita, Christina Choi of Nettletown, and Armandino Batali of Salumi.

But the first demo of the day was by Douglas. Just after 9am, he divided the camp into two groups. The first group watched him break down a pig—the 65-pounder in question was a lean little guy, as you’ll see in the slideshow. The second group went next door to Palace Kitchen to compete in a veggie-based cookoff.

Douglas taught the campers how to butcher each cut of the pig, and volunteers came up and carved as well—one very likable little lady stood on tiptoes in order to reach around and lob off a hunk of ham. Douglas talked about butchering knives, “boners” as he calls them. Apparently flexible boners are good for quail, while stiff boners are best for lamb. Larger animals require a butcher boner.

When the poor piggy was all in pieces, Douglas ground up some of the porky bits for stuffing a porchetta —he seasoned it with garlic and fennel pollen, the latter is an amazing, potent ingredient I think you’ll want to buy as soon as possible.

Later, journalist Leslie Kelly joined Douglas on stage to wrap a rabbit in smoked pancetta and stuff it with whole herbs, onion, and lemon. Douglas cooked the rabbit on a rotisserie at 300 degrees F for about an hour. (He mentioned something about a rotisserie making him feel manly and virile.) As with all the dishes at Culinary Camp, the piggy rabbit was passed around for tasting. It was unspeakably delicious—juicy and tender from the rotisserie and augmented greatly by the smoky pancetta.

Meanwhile at Palace Kitchen, the second group of campers had broken into four teams. Their challenge was to create a dish using a selection of ingredients from the pantry—they could augment with animal products like bacon and smoked salmon, but vegetables were the focus. By the time I got there they were already plating, and the energy was Top Chef intense. Check out the end results in the slideshow.

Aside: Here are some random things I learned from Tom Douglas yesterday morning. Jade Garden, the dim sum restaurant in the I.D., is officially too dirty to be okay. “It was gross!” said Douglas of his last visit. If he goes to dim sum in Seattle, he goes to Harbor Village. The Yukon salmon currently on sale at Mutual Fish is the best he’s been able to buy for years. When buying salmon, by the way, the biggest fish are the best. Marcus Samuelsson—the recent Top Chef Masters winner—“could be a model,” he’s so good-looking, and Gordon Ramsey is just as mean in person as on TV.

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Tags: Tom Douglas, Pigs, Pork, Palace Ballroom, Tom Douglas Culinary Camp

Gabriel Claycamp Leaves the Swinery

The butcher shop and lunch counter will continue to operate at its West Seattle location.

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The Swinery, now with 100 percent less Claycamp.

Well, folks, never a dull day in Gabetown. Gabriel Claycamp, the former Culinary Communion chef, has left the second iteration of his butcher shop, the Swinery. Claycamp, who was backed by an investor/partner he claims is more than 300 thousand dollars invested in the business, says he wasn’t being paid for his work at the West Seattle chop shop. Claycamp says he plans to seek employment as a cook or, if possible, a chef. He says he’s had teaching offers as well.

I spoke with a source at the Swinery who asked not to be named but told me that the West Seattle butcher shop had no plans to close and that the three remaining employees are staying put. “Same hours, same everything,” said the source, adding, “it’s a good change, a step in the right direction.”

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Tags: Restaurant News, Butchers, Pigs, Pork, Gabriel Claycamp, Dining-World Drama

New in West Seattle

Inner Sanctum of the Temple of Porcine Love

Is that a great restaurant name or WHAT?

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Pigs, amazing pigs

Inner Sanctum of the Temple of Porcine Love opened a couple of weeks ago as part of Gabe Claycamp’s and Heidi Kenyon’s all-natural butcher shop/charcuterie in West Seattle, The Swinery.

Claycamp and Kenyon you know. They’re the couple who in recent years have dominated the blogosphere with the roller-coaster ride of their adventures in culinary renown: their hip “underground” restaurant Gypsy, their cooking school Culinary Communion, its relocation to shiny new digs on Beacon Hill, the city’s abrupt closure of parts of the operation, the crash and burn of the whole thing, then The Swinery’s launch last fall in West Seattle.

These two have generated more, ahem, opinion than the ref from last week’s US-Slovenia game.

Us, we’re just in it for the pig. Because Part Two of that launch brings brunch and lunch to the property, in the form of lard biscuits with rosemary sausage gravy, and bacon waffles, and pork belly hash. Thundering Hooves chuck-steak burgers piled with cheese and caramelized onions, pulled-pork sandwiches, and fries made with tallow (the beef renderings that make fries taste so good).

There’s no forgetting you’re at a place called The Swinery.

Anyway, they’re having a party: Friday, June 25, from 4pm to 7pm. Or just come for lunch (Tues-Fri, 11am to 3:30pm) or brunch (Sat-Sun 10am-2pm).

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Tags: New Seattle Restaurants, Brunch, Lunch, Pigs, Bacon, Pork, Gabriel Claycamp

Because it is There

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Tags: Pigs, Random

Chef Drama

Cochon 555 Founder Brawls with Local Pig Advocate in Portland

Event Founder Brady Lowe hospitalized for leg fracture, according to Willamette Weekly.

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Can’t we all just get along?

The Portland leg of the Cochon 555 tour, held on Sunday, May 16, appears to have ended rather violently. The Willamette Weekly’s Kelly Clarke is reporting that chef Eric Bechard (of Thistle in McMinnville) and Cochon 555 founder Brady Lowe fought outside of a strip club in Old Town Portland.

Clarke says both men were arrested, and that Lowe ended up in the hospital with a leg fracture.

“Bechard, an attendee at the food event, was angry that Lowe had allowed a pig from Iowa (the winning pig, in fact) to be used as part of the Portland Cochon 555 competition” reports Clarke.

That wasn’t the only violent incident that night. “Earlier in the evening, Bechard head-butted Elk Cove Vineyards’ Craig Hedstrom before being dragged out of the Cochon 555 afterparty at Davis Street Tavern by none other than notorious chef and city-suing firefighter Tom Hurley.”

Seattle’s own Cochon 555 event takes place this Sunday, May 23. Wear a helmet?

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Tags: Pigs, Chef Drama

Deals

Pig Roast at Fresh Bistro on May 25

A $12, Mexican-themed pork buffet awaits you next Tuesday.

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If you don’t plan to pig out this weekend at Cochon 555, perhaps you prefer instead to pig out at Fresh Bistro. On Tuesday, May 25, Fresh chef Dalis Chea will be roasting a whole pig on the premises. For $12, you can partake of a puercocentric Mexican-themed buffet: the ancho-rubbed pig itself, rice and refried beens, tortillas and sopes. The roast begins at 7pm and lasts until 9.

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Tags: West Seattle, Special Dinners, Pigs

Food Events

Cochon 555: The Ultimate Pig Out

On May 23, celebrate breed diversity and eat a lot of well-prepared pork.

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Twas a time, in the earlier decades of the 20th century, when most farms had a few hogs waddling about, to be slaughtered for bacon and lard and other household needs. Each breed had its distinct flavors, and the meat varied wildly in terms of quality and taste—there was sweet Berkshire, gamey Ossabaw, juicy Duroc. The thing was, pork did not have, nor was it expected to have, a uniform taste, the way most supermarket piggy meat does today.

Today these breeds are referred to collectively as “heritage pigs.” Some people think that all meat from heritage breeds is superior stuff, but that isn’t necessarily the case. The term basically just means any hog breed that’s been around for a while. Some of them, like Hampshires, are still easy to find almost any where there are pig eaters. Others, like the American mulefoot (which, thanks to its high fat content, produces delicious ham), are pretty severely endangered.

On Sunday, May 23 at the Bell Harbor International Conference Center, the ten-city Cochon 555 tour stops in Seattle. In each city, five chefs are each gived a 140-pound heritage hog with which to prepare a number of dishes. Guests sample the porcine goods alongside vinos from five local wineries. As is customary at such events, there will be judges who decide which chef prepared the best pig feast, but it’s mostly about eating, drinking, and realizing how diverse hog meat really is.

This year’s chefs: Jonathan Sundstrom of Lark, Adam Stevenson from Earth and Ocean, Chow Foods’ Anthony Hubbard, Chester Gerl from Matt’s, and Tamara Murphy of Brasa.

Wineries pouring are: McCrea Cellars, Long Shadows, Buty, Fidelitas, and Elk Cove Vineyards.

Cochon 555 begins at 5pm and ends at 8. Tickets are $125 general admission; $175 VIP. Buy them here.

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Tags: Food Events and Festivals, Pigs

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