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Farmers Market Finds

Lilli-Pilli Dabbles in Jellies, Jams

Master macaronier Rhiannon Devine will sell her jars at the Crossroads Farmers Market.

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Find Lilli-Pilli jam at the Crossroads Farmers Market. Photo via Facebook.

Lilli-Pilli macarons are beloved by Seattle Met staffers, so it goes without saying we were pleased to learn owner Rhiannon Devine is dabbling in jellies and jams.

Devine will sell her spreads at the Crossroads Farmers Market when it opens May 29. Flavors you might encounter include a golden raspberry Grand Marnier or rhubarb and Black Heron Spirits limoncello. Add a touch of booze and “people are all over it,” chuckles the Aussie. The blueberry is made with the wild strain rubel from Washington farm Whitehorse.

Quantities are limited, about a dozen of each flavor—Devine is adamant about making this a small-batch operation—and come in 6.4 ounce jars and go for $7 or $8. (Though that could change, Devine has yet to nail down a price.) And my, is that packaging nice.

Devine has long experimented with jams and jellies; she initially wanted to focus on them and not macs, in fact. But relax. She has no intention of forgoing the macaron making. To the contrary, Devine has secured considerable more time in her commissary kitchen, so will likely pump out a hefty amount while an employee mans the Crossroads stand. (Side note: Lilli-Pilli may have a presence at several markets, but Crossroads is the only one that will carry the jars.) The fillings in many of her pastries are jams, so the opportunity to expand on that only seemed fitting.

Around the same time the market debuts Devine plans to implement an online ordering system. Watch for the opportunity on the Lilli-Pilli website.

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Tags: Farmers Markets, Macarons, Lilli-Pilli, Rhiannon Devine

Food News Roundup

Neighborhood Food News: Lunar New Year Celebration, King Cake is Back at Where Ya At Matt

Plus: Free house-made Samoas, a cookbook callout, and the return of Cupcake Royale’s “Deathcake”

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20 International District restaurants are participating in the Lunar New Year Festival with a smattering of $2 dishes.

BALLARD
In the name of spreading latte love, on Valentine’s Day the cafe/flower shop Emerald City Orchids will choose two fans to receive a free latte every day that the cafe is open.

CAPITOL HILL
Zephyr Paquette’s much-anticipated community-driven restaurant Skelly and the Bean is looking for for donations of dinner plates. Mismatched plates can only contribute to the ultra-communal feel of this unique restaurant.

CENTRAL DISTRICT
Urban farming collective Alleycat Acres is putting together a community cookbook and wants your recipes (well, only if you live in the Central District or Beacon Hill.) When the cookbook is complete, it’ll be available as an eBook for less than $5.

DOWNTOWN
Free house-made Samoa cookies, inspired by the Girl Scout classic, at BOKA this Friday 11—1. Stop by on your way to the boat show for a shortbread topped with caramel, dipped in chocolate and coconut.

INTERNATIONAL DISTRICT
In celebration of the arrival of the Year of the Dragon, a variety of restaurants such as Fuji Bakery and Fu-Lin Ramen House will be offering $2 dishes at the Second Annual Lunar New Year Food Walk this Saturday from 11 am. After dim sum, check out Wing Luke Museum’s exhibit From Fields to Family about the history of food in the neighborhood.

WEST SEATTLE
The newest location of ever-growing froyo chain Menchie’s is having a grand opening this weekend. The California Avenue shop will offer up free frozen yogurt 11–1 Saturday and lots of other activities and freebies all weekend long.

KIRKLAND
Lilli Pilli, the macaron-only bakery run by an local-food-loving Aussie, is offering free delivery on Valentine’s Day for orders of $50 or more. Someone in your life (or you) probably needs a couple boxes of Fleur de Sel caramel macarons, one of our favorites in last year’s taste test.

MULTIPLE LOCATIONS
Cupcake Royale’s decadent Deathcake is back for another chocolate-drenched Valentine’s Day. Now available in babycake size, the Deathcake consists of Theo chocolate paired with Stumptown espresso ganache, topped with fleur de sel.

A sweet pre-Mardi Gras indulgence, sugary cinnamon-laced king cake is back at Creole food truck Where Ya At Matt.

Food tour company Savor Seattle is putting on a food hunt this February; follow them on Facebook or Twitter to get in on each day’s puzzle. For the first to figure it out each day, there will be a prize ranging in value from $25 to $200 and a ticket to enter in the drawing for the grand prize—a tour for two through every Tom Douglas restaurant.

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Tags: Valentine's Day, International District, Cupcakes, Macarons, Skelly and the Bean, Frozen Yogurt, Where Ya At Matt

Trend Alert

Restaurants Co-Opt the Macaron Trend

Find the delicacies at more than just bakeries.

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Ba Bar’s pastry chef Karen Krol. Photo courtesy Ba Bar

Yep, macarons are definitely having a moment. Not only are the French pastries coming out of bakeries left and right, they’re also popping up at restaurants.

Ba Bar has been dropping like mad Facebook pics of new pastry chef Karen Krol fashioning all sorts of intriguing flavors, chocolate nutella and banana chocolate being two examples.

The recently opened Hitchcock deli on Bainbridge brought on Tamas Ronyai to oversee a panoply of pastries, macarons included. Odds are they’re excellent—Ronyai trained at Parisian patisserie Laduree, the famed birthplace of the meringue cakes. Right now two flavors are in rotation, with a couple more to come soon, according to a Hitchcock baker.

Art in the Four Seasons just added several (wee) varieties to the menu. The pistachio is particularly delicious (and pretty, with its artful streaks of sparkle).

Where else?

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Tags: Food Trends in Seattle, Macarons

Sweet Talk

Macarons Versus Macaroons: What’s the Deal?

Demystifying the perpetually misunderstood treats.

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Several weeks ago Nosh Pit ran the results from a macaron taste test. The post prompted head scratching from some readers and colleagues. Aren’t macarons little coconut mounds?, they wondered.

In fact, they are not.

Macarons are those très trendy, pretty French pastries made with two meringue cookies, in between which is creamy filling. A macaron resembles a mini burger. A macaroon (note the two Os) is indeed a coconut confection but can look like hash browns. They’re not nearly as pretty. Interestingly enough the two share more than a confoundedly similar name. “They’re part of the same family tree but became divided” as Italian Jewish populations sought a Passover treat free of leavening agents, explains baking expert Jessie Oleson.

Appearances aside, a macaroon, especially when dipped in chocolate, is absolutely delicious—like a Mounds bar, only fancier. Included here are two examples certainly worth considering next time you seek a jolt of sweet. The ones on the left are from Dahlia Bakery; the plateful below is the work of Essential Baking Company.

Those looking for crunch will dig the former—the toasty exterior masterfully masks the gooey middle—while Essential’s is unabashedly moist through and through. The chocolate is a nice touch, too.

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Tags: Desserts, Macarons

Taste Tests

Seattle Met Taste Test: Macarons

A panel of sweet teeth gobbles up 12 kinds of the pretty French pastry.

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Lilli-Pilli: Caramel

The Verdict: Great ratio of crumb to cream, and downright yummy. Alas the gloppy caramel had us pining for a thinner spread. Points for the just-so touch of salt.

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Lilli-Pilli: Caramel

The Verdict: Great ratio of crumb to cream, and downright yummy. Alas the gloppy caramel had us pining for a thinner spread. Points for the just-so touch of salt.

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Bakery Nouveau: Chocolate

The Verdict: Dense rather than dainty, this nugget reminded us of a truffle, not a macaron. Intensely flavorful, with a boozy aftertaste.

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THIRD PLACE WINNER! (TIE)

Belle Epicurean: Pumpkin

The Verdict: Kudos for the zesty, complex finish. As one taster put it, “There is some rogue flavor. Is it chili? Is it rum? Maybe a little salt?” The filling: pleasant, thanks to its velvet whip, but rather buttery for some. Great texture all around.

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Le Panier: Chocolate

The Verdict: With the tooth of a brownie and a tad dry, these didn’t deliver the ethereal texture we sought. Not enough filling.

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THIRD PLACE WINNER! (TIE)

Le Panier: Espresso

The Verdict: But Le Panier’s coffee cakes did capture that lightness.

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Madeleine Bread and Desserts: Chocolate

The Verdict: The middle maintained an undeniably chocolate flavor, but the meringues were wan. The first morsels gave way nicely: “It almost melts as soon as you bite it.”

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SECOND PLACE WINNER!

Lilli-Pilli: Chocolate

The Verdict: Effortlessly delicious, with a smooth cacao tang and masterful balance between meringue and middle. No matter these were the penultimate macs on our list—most noshers went in for seconds.

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Marie and Freres: Chocolate

The Verdict: While the ganache is no doubt first-rate (indeed, it’s additive free and sourced from Brazil’s Atlantic Forest), it just didn’t work in this medium. The dark savor imparted sour notes, we wanted something sweeter. But the crusty cakes rocked.

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FIRST PLACE WINNER!

Belle Epicurean: Chocolate

The verdict: Truly delectable. As any proper macaron should, the meringues are made with almond. The ganache—“really, really creamy and dark”—proved a delicious complement to the fragrant, nutty undertones. Delicate yet “the right amount of chewiness.”

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Le Panier: Lemon

The Verdict: Not as bright in flavor as color but notable nonetheless: “This tastes natural,” enthused one over the citrus savor.

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Madeleine Bread and Desserts: Green Tea

The Verdict: Fans of Asian pastries may dig the heavy hints of matcha. This team, however, found it overpowering.

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Bakery Nouveau: Margarita

The Verdict: Too much of a novelty for this classic-loving crew.

By Stephanie Rubesh and Christopher Werner

No, not the coconut heaps (those are spelled with two Os). We’re talking about macarons, the French pastries the color of Easter popping up in pastry cases the country over.

Macarons are as elegant as they are complex. Two dainty meringue domes cocoon a luxe filling, typically buttercream or ganache. Ratio is key—too much filling negates the crisp of the cookies. So is the feather-light texture: each nibble should yield a slight crackle then give way to the creamy, chewy center, advises Jessie Oleson, aka CakeSpy, Seattle’s resident sweet tooth. It’s not every time a macaronier masters both meringue and middle.

To find out which local bakeries are doing it right, we gobbled up dozens of samples. We reached out to notable patisseries (and one confectionery) and asked each to submit two types of macs: chocolate and a flavor of their choice (note one participant submitted several, one only the former). A panel then blindly sampled and ranked them.

Which ones wowed us? Click through the slideshow to find out and to read tasting notes. Don’t see your favorite macaron maker? Holler in the comments. Oh, but let’s get this out of the way: Honore unfortunately opted not to partake.

All photos by seattlemet.com photographer Lucas Anderson.

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Tags: Desserts, Nosh Pit Taste Tests, Food Taste Tests, Macarons, Lilli-Pilli

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