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Pike Place Recipes: 130 Ways to Eat the Market

Local food writer Jess Thomson’s forthcoming cookbook weaves market history and behind-the-scenes exploration into a culinary paean.

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Jess Thomson, culinary Pike Place guide.

“I think that one of the problems that Seattleites have is that you just go to the market with friends from out of town, and you don’t think about, Okay, how am I going to take this home for dinner?

That’s Jess Thomson, the quietly prolific local food writer (and Seattle Met contributor) who has provided us with a remedy for this problem in her upcoming cookbook, Pike Place Market Recipes: 130 Delicious Ways to Bring Home Seattle’s Famous Market.

Another problem with the market, says Thomson: “It can be so overwhelming.”

Agreed. I know I’ve gone in for snap peas and emerged with shiny purple plums, bright green romanesco broccoli, a salty hunk of smoked salmon, some gigantic peonies…and no peas. Pike Place Recipes solves this problem too, providing a more structured way to approach the market and emerge with the components of what will become a lovely meal.

Take the time to chat with vendors, says Thomson, and shoppers will find most of them are full of advice. “It’s a more complete shopping experience.” Her book, due out May 15 from local publisher Sasquatch, is a handy distillation of all this advice, sorting it out into recipes and ingredients. The cookbook has a good balance of simple recipes (including some particularly drool-worthy sopaipillas, fresh tortillas fried and topped with chipotle, cinnamon, and cumin) and more complex, fancy dinner party recipes (like a clam, mussel, and white bean paella).

In the book, the vendors’ hints are successfully combined with Thomson’s food wisdom. A culinary school grad who spent 2007 writing a recipe a day for her blog, Hogwash, she’s been creating and testing recipes for years. About half of the recipes in the book come directly from restaurants or vendors (ahem, Le Pichet’s Salade Verte) and the other half are market-inspired, Thomson-created (such as a cake with MarketSpice tea glaze). The book is divided into sections by ingredient source: the Sound, the slopes, the garden, the shops, the butcher, the oven, the cellar, and the pantry. Each section begins with an essay—more of a love poem, really—on the vendors’ dedication to their wares, whether that be precious morel mushrooms, smoky bacon, or fresh baguettes.

With Pike Place Recipes, Thomson invites readers into the market as more than overwhelmed tourists or jaded locals—instead we arrive as excited home chefs and members of an ever-growing food community. As she notes, the market was created as a place where people could meet their farmers. And though admittedly, it’s usually not the apple farmer hawking the apples anymore, the market has retained that sense of connection, that local, community feeling. Most Seattle folk feel some sort of connection to the market—whether it be a warm love for its presence or an annoyance with the summertime tourist hordes—but Pike Place Recipes gives us a brand new approach to the market. Armed with a more in-depth knowledge of the vendors and their wares, a shopping list, and a plan, we can actually use the market as a market.

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Tags: Cookbooks, Recipes, Pike Place Market, Le Pichet, Books, Books & Authors

Favorite Seattle Salads

Good places to get your greens (and fried chicken, too).

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Bastillesalad

Salade verte from Bastille recreated at home
Photo: Jess Thomson

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Salade verte from Bastille recreated at home
Photo: Jess Thomson

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Baguette Box, home of the drunken chicken salad.

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Goi is good at Tamarind Tree in the ID

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The salade verte at Le Pichet downtown: a hazelnut-enhanced classic

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The big salad changes daily at Nettletown and may take longer than an hour to eat.

Seattle Met recently featured a recipe for Bastille’s salade verte, I highly recommend you try it at home. When the French decided that hazelnuts should be a regular ingredient in salad dressing they were very much onto something.

Here are some more of my other favorite everyday, easy-to-come-by salads around town:

A salad need not be light. The drunken chicken salad at Baguette Box is a total calorie whore, but who really cares when you’re looking at a bed of mixed greens—spruced up with orange slices, almonds, croutons, and caramelized onions, and covered in fried balls of chicken that have been crisped to perfection? Nobody, that’s who cares.

On the lighter side are shredded-veggie Vietnamese salads (gỏi), although my favorite does come topped with beef. It’s the gỏi bò at Tamarind Tree: slices of tender beef in an herby fish sauce lie on a bed of shredded cabbage, carrots, herbs, pickled onion, and roasted peanuts.

Le Pichet is a great place to remember when you’re downtown on the weekend in search of a late lunch—the menu is available from 11:30 to 5:30. When I’m there, I must order the cafe’s version of the classic salade verte with hazelnut vinaigrette. It’s basically a ball of bibb lettuce drizzled in perfect vinaigrette with a smattering of toasted hazelnuts tossed on top for good measure. On Capitol Hill, an identical salad is to be had at Cafe Presse (same owners).

It’s been a few months, but I’m still freaking out about Nettletown. The big salad changes daily, and features whatever foraged goodies have made their way into Christina Choi’s kitchen. The first time I went for lunch, I ordered a sandwich and one of my dining companions went for the salad. I actually had to leave her there after an hour to go back to work, she was still digging her way through that big old bowl of greens, and happily.

The insalata mista at Tutta Bella gets big points from me for having white beans as well as white balsamic vinaigrette. White balsamic is less syrupy than its brown counterpart, and when it has its zippy way with a plate of raw veggies the results are mighty fine. It also has carrots, olives, sweet red onions, roasted peppers, and the option to add Gorgonzola cheese. By all means, add it!

So there you have some of my favorites. But come now, good readers. Surely you have some favorite salads of your own. Please, tell us about them.

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Tags: Vegetarian/Vegan Whatnot, Nettletown, Le Pichet, Salad, Vegetables, Summer Eating, Tamarind Tree, Bastille

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