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Critic's Notebook

Terra Plata’s Tamara Murphy Didn’t Invent the Happy Hour…

…well okay, in this town she kind of did. We spoke about that legendary happy hour’s effect on her late, great Brasa—and its effect on Seattle.

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Murphy at work in Terra Plate. Photo courtesy of the Terra Plate Facebook page.

On the phone with Terra Plata owner and chef Tamara Murphy last week, I asked her about her former restaurant, Brasa —the Belltown Iberian restaurant that held down the 2100 block of Third Avenue from 1999 to 2010—and the happy hour that set off a city-wide frenzy.

“We survived WTO, we survived 9/11,” Murphy reflected. “Brasa was a big restaurant; it was difficult. I’d periodically thought about selling, but I wanted to get to the end of my ten-year lease. Right after 9/11, we started happy hour. I’m not the inventor of the happy hour, but I think Brasa was the first that took its menu and said, ‘We’re gonna do it with food.’”

Here the restaurant critic interjects: Do you remember that food? In what was then a brazen move, Murphy slashed her bar menu prices in half between the weekday hours of 5pm and 7pm, luring in half the city for big $7 preparations of steak-frites and chorizo clams and Spanish pork sandwiches called bocadillos…and more. These careful preparations not only represented the dinnertime steal of the century, they lit a fire across the city. Now every joint from Barolo to Japonessa makes happy hour food deals a major part of their draw, having learned well the lesson of Brasa: Lure ‘em with food, lube ‘em with drink—and watch ‘em stay for dinner.

Er…sometimes. “Yes we wanted bodies, and people did drink,” recalls Murphy. “But it became a bit of a Catch-22. We’d get so many people in for happy hour we’d have to seat them in the dining room. Sometimes it was hard for diners to get a seat for dinner.”

She shuttered Brasa and now can be seen lunch, dinner, and brunch at Terra Plata. Which has, as of this writing, no happy hour menu.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Critic's Notebook, Terra Plata

Happy Hour

Happy Hour in Seattle: Oyster Edition

It’s oyster season. Here’s where to get them on the (somewhat) cheap.

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Oysters will run you 69 cents at Whole Foods Westlake’s monthly oyster happy hour.

I’m of two minds about cheap oysters. These elegant, complex treats are a luxury, and should be savored and respected accordingly. The enjoyment of an oyster is often tied to price. Then again, sometimes you just want to gorge on the things alongside a few glasses of wine or porter, and not have to sell off your plasma to pay the resulting tab. Oysters are also perhaps the world’s best naturally occurring drinking food.

And in Seattle, with its proximity to many an oyster bed, the dollar oyster happy hour is our natural-given right. But before delving into the realm of cheap oysters, consider (groan) shelling out for Jon Rowley’s annual Walrus and Carpenter oyster picnic, a nocturnal celebration of cold, fresh oysters and copious amounts of wine.

If you want to dip below a dollar without the sketch factor, Seattle has three epic oyster happy hours. The first is Flying Fish. Every day from 4 to 6 you can find oysters for just 50 cents apiece at the bar. And if you happen to be available from 3 to 4 on a weekday, the lounge at Elliott’s Oyster House shucks fresh oysters for 75 cents apiece. Prices go up to $1.25 at 4 and $1.75 at 5.

Alas, the Westlake Whole Foods has put its monthly oyster happy hour on hold for the holidays. But prepare yourself for its triumphant return January 24, when Barron Point oysters run just 69 cents from 5 to 7 (the store does beer and wine specials too). A Whole Foods rep told me this crowd-inducing happy hour has also expanded to the Interbay location. The Westlake oysterfest happens on the second-to-last Tuesday of the month, but check the store calendar, Facebook page and such for more details on the Interbay version.

As for the dollar oyster happy hours, a few reliable bets include Blueacre Seafood, Belltown’s Local 360, Mistral Kitchen, and, of course, the oyster power hour at Ethan Stowell’s Anchovies and Olives (Sunday through Thursday from 5 to 6 and again from 10 to 11). Oysters cost a quarter more downtown at The Brooklyn’s daily happy hour.

For the first half of Walrus and the Carpenter’s happy hour (Sunday through Thursday, 4 to 6), oysters are half-price, then 25 percent off for the second half. You can find cheaper oysters, true, but braving the crowds here wins you the opportunity to compare oysters side by side, determining how one variety might be oversize and salty, another petite and metallic. All are delightful when accompanied by the bar’s oyster-friendly happy hour list of wine, beer and cocktails.

Taylor Shellfish Farms’ new store at Melrose Market doesn’t do happy hour waives its shucking fee from 2 to 4pm, seven days a week. If you want to enjoy oysters at a reasonable price and get an education while doing it, there isn’t a better destination in the city. Survey the watery oyster tanks and choose a combination of different varieties. Whatever the market price, a quick shucking and a hit of mignonette and lemon regularly costs just $4 extra. Order several dozen and that cost goes down. Enjoy these with a glass of wine or a bottle of Pike beer, both options selected for their oyster simpatico.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Oysters, Walrus and the Carpenter, Elliott's Oyster House

Chefs Behind Bars

Maria Hines Will Bartend at Golden Beetle on Tuesdays

The James Beard-winning chef makes her debut tonight.

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Maria Hines keeps plenty busy running her two restaurants, but tonight you’ll find the chef behind the bar at her newest spot, Ballard’s Golden Beetle. Hines will be tending bar during happy hour, from 5 to 6pm, most Tuesdays in November and December.

Hines says she’s been intrigued watching bar manager Andy McClellan and his cohorts “balancing out flavors and using their palates and just being creative.” She’s been training with McClellan and even experimenting with her own tinctures and infused spirits.

The chef-turned-bartender even created a drink special for the night: a cucumber-infused gin drink made with Cynar and a sumac tincture of her own creation. A bourbon fan herself, Hines has another special in the works involving a Manhattan shaken with a bit of sweetened, condensed milk. The drink is served alongside a rocks glass filled with fried, puffed hominy, tossed with cinnamon and sugar. She describes her concoction as a play on the ingredients, including corn, that go into making the spirit.

Look for her every Tuesday for the rest of the year, except November 8 and 29. McClellan has rolled out a new cocktail menu for the winter months as well.

Hines, for the record, is circumspect about her foray into cocktail crafting.

“Let’s be realistic here,” she says. “It’s happy hour time. It’s not like I’ll be here during the rush, taking the whole restaurant down.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Maria Hines, Golden Beetle

Late-night eats

Discounted Eats Alert: New Wee Hours “Industry” Menu at Ba Bar

Also: Happy hour

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Pho and a Moscow Mule at Ba Bar

Photo: Ba Bar via Facebook

Ba Bar bar manager Evan Martin brings word that the 12th Avenue East eatery is now serving happy hour at the bar from 3 to 7pm daily. The menu includes $6 cocktails including a Moscow Mule, Pegu Club, Americano, Paloma, Old-Fashioned, Bloody Mary, Mimosa, Dhonga Punch, and Caipirinha, and discounts on dishes like pho and fried smelt.

And alongside the late-night menu that’s served until 4am on Fridays and Saturdays (2am Sunday–Thursday), there is now an “industry hour” drinks menu that include a pickle shot (vodka and cornichon), $5 Fernet Branca belts, and $2 cans of Rainier. That’s daily from 11pm to 2am.

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Tags: Happy Hour, First Hill

Biscuit Watch

Even More Biscuits!

Discovered at Frank’s: White cheddar biscuits stuffed with ham, cheese, and apple butter.

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Biscuits. With cheese baked into them.

Photo: recipe.com

Biscuit watch report from Ravenna: Frank’s Oyster House and Champagne Bar on NE 55th Street has white cheddar biscuit sandwiches on its small plates menu.

They are slider size and slightly dense. They are filled with (perfect) ham from Carleton Farms in Lake Stevens as well as Beecher’s cheese. Accompanying them: a little dish of apple butter that you spread on your sandwich before digging on in. The appley sweetness with the sorta salty ham and the sharp cheese? That works.

A duo of biscuit sandwiches at Frank’s costs $9.75, but if you go during happy hour you get a $2 discount on every small plate on the menu. Happy hour is Tuesday through Saturday 5 to 6:30pm and 10 to 11pm.

Another thing to know: Frank’s has sidewalk seating.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Ravenna, Outdoor Dining, Biscuits

New, yet Old

Twisted Cork Reopens

It’s back at the Bellevue Hyatt.

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New eats for the Bellevue Hyatt

Earlier this year, Twisted Cork—the wine bar and restaurant off the lobby of Bellevue’s Hyatt—finally gave up the ghost after a difficult time trying to transition from its original identity as 0/8 Seafood Grill and Twisted Cork Wine Bar. The brainchild of radio “Chef Dan” Thiessen, the restaurant and wine bar struggled to distinguish itself within the growing field of Bellevue restaurants—and struggled to perform consistently within the demanding three-meals-a-day mandate of a hotel restaurant.

So imagine our surprise to receive word that Twisted Cork has been revived, under the new management of the Hyatt itself.

Look for daily breakfasts, buffet to beignets to Bennies, along with tapas-style dinners and happy hours 4pm to 6pm Mon-Sat.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Bellevue, Bellevue Hiatt, Twisted Cork

First Look: Lecosho

Sneak a peek at Matt Janke’s new Harbor Steps restaurant, opening this month.

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“Food We Like” is the motto of Lecosho, the new restaurant on the Harbor steps opening this month with Chef Mike Easton at the helm.

View Slideshow » Illustration:

“Food We Like” is the motto of Lecosho, the new restaurant on the Harbor steps opening this month with Chef Mike Easton at the helm.

View Slideshow » Illustration:

Lecosho, or “pig” in Chinook, has been completely renovated from its former site, the Japanese restaurant, Koji.

View Slideshow » Illustration:

“Wine should be accessible – not a mystery,” says Janke. Here he works on finalizing the menu, which will feature a well-rounded wine and food-friendly beer list including local taps.

View Slideshow » Illustration:

The wooden bar detail was brought in from a friend’s bar in Sun Valley, Idaho. The dark wood should go nicely with the classic cocktails Lecosho plans to serve beneath it.

This month Matt Janke, the Matt behind Matt’s in the Market (which he has since sold), will open Lecosho—that’s the Chinook word for “pig”—a seasonally focused restaurant in the former Koji Osakaya spot along the Harbor Steps downtown. His partner in the project is Jill Buchanan.

Janke recently gave Seattle Met the chance to check in on his progress. Have a look at the slideshow to see what you can expect at Downtown’s hotly anticipated new restaurant.

All photos by Alexandra Notman.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Seattle Restaurant Openings, Chefs

Rough. Rough.

Dog Happy Hour at Beach Cafe

Yeah, you read right. (Um, is this dog-friendly trend getting to be a bit much?)

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Belly up, Fido

Dog owners across the region will howl with glee at word that Kirkland’s glittering lakeside Woodmark Hotel and its resident casual Beach Cafe has launched a dog-friendly happy hour.

From 5pm to 7pm on those Wednesdays the weather permits, the Woodmark’s house pooch Woody, a Labradoodle puppy, will greet fellow canines and their pet humans on the cafe patio and grassy lawn.

You get cocktails and casual noshes; Spot gets complimentary dog treats.

And Seattle area restaurants get one step closer to that paranoid fantasy of petless humans everywhere: The dogs are taking over the world.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Pet friendly

Once a day is not enough

Truffled Bacon

Now that we’ve got your attention: John Howie Steak launches another Happy Hour

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John Howie just got happier

The most solid new addition to the Bellevue dining scene just got a little more liquid.

John Howie Steak has launched a second daily Happy Hour, from 9pm to 11pm weeknights, til midnight Saturdays, and a full panorama of 3pm to 9pm happiness Sundays.

Now you can tipple Fris Vodka martinis around the piano bar eating things like ½ pound USDA Prime beef bacon cheeseburgers or Kurobuta pork belly sliders for $8. Or deviled eggs with truffled bacon for $5. Or Reggiano Parmigiano potato chips for just $3.

Sounds pretty happy to us.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Bargain Bites, Bellevue, Restaurants, Restaurant News, Restaurant News

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