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Nosh Pit Weekly Planner: Memorial Day Edition

This week: free burgers, free ice cream, an upcoming Skelly and the Bean event, and a Seattlecentric cookbook signing.

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Memorial Day and National Burger Day are officially one in the same this year.

WEDNESDAY May 23
Whole Food Veggie Happy Hour Benefit
For one day only: dodge the accidental $20 hot food bar trip; there will be a $6 vegetarian dinner from 5 to 7 at the Westlake Whole Foods. Baked artichokes, asparagus, and corn fritters are on the menu, and all the food sales go to Forterra, a northwest conservation group.

SATURDAY May 26
Mischief Distillery at Tulalip
Tulalip Casino Resort is bringing the Fremont craft distiller out for the summer launch party of the patio at the Mpulse Lounge. Though the letter “i” apparently won’t be in attendance, the founder of Mischief will. The $30 ticket gets you an afternoon of live music, giveaways, liquor-laced snacks, drinks, and…mischief.

Revelry at Col Solare
The first of the summer’s Auction of Washington Wine events takes place at Col Solare winery on Saturday. Aside from the beautiful scenery and 21 winemakers planned to pour at the event there’s an even better reason to make this the highlight of your Memorial weekend getaway: it’ll be raising money for uncompensated care at Seattle Children’s Hospital.

MONDAY May 28 (Memorial Day)
Free Burgers at Li’l Woody’s
The 28th is doing double holiday duty his year: Memorial Day and National Hamburger Day. Actually, there’s some serious debate about the true day o’ the burger, whether it’s May or July 28. The Capitol Hill burger joint is celebrating the May date with free burgers for all from 2 to 5.

Free Scoops for Vets
Old School Frozen Custard is keeping its Memorial celebration, well, old school, and honoring the veterans who the holiday is actually for with free scoops for those who’ve served.

Sidetrack Distillery Feast
The berry liqueur–making crew out at Lazy River Farm is putting on a big Memorial Day party. Food, beer, wine, and sips of Sidetrack are all on the docket. The party starts at 2:30.

Raw, Vegan Potluck
Mayonnaise-y potato salad and a juicy burger not your thing? Those who aren’t taking advantage of Memorial Day as a day to indulge in an entire week’s worth of fat and sugar are meeting up at Discovery Park for a potluck. Drums and durian, that um…pungent fruit, are encouraged.

TUESDAY May 29
African Feast at Skelly and the Bean
From Morocco all the way down to South Africa in four courses for just $40 bucks. Arrive at Skelly and the Bean at 5 for drinks, and dinner begins at 6.

Seattle Cookbooks at Elliott Bay Book Co.
Seattle-o-rama at Elliott Bay. Molly Moon (of… Molly Moon’s), Mark Klebeck (of Top Pot Doughnuts), and Jess Thomson (of Pike Place Market Recipes) will all be at the bookstore signing their books from 5 to 6:30. And there’s promise of samples from all the mouth-watering books…

May Corner Table at Cafe Presse
This month’s Corner Table dinner is a benefit for Green Plate Special, the Central District nonprofit that teaches kids from primarily low-income families how to garden and cook. The Corner table menu will be put together by Laura Dewell, head of Green Plate, and the dinner is $55 with wine pairings. Call Cafe Presse to save your spot at the 6:30 dinner.

BEYOND
July 26 This year marks the third anniversary of the popular event Feast on the Farm. Ethan Stowell cooks, Pearl Jam guitarist Mike McCready jams, and diners get to ride tractors around the farm before sitting down to a salmon-safe, local-food dinner under the sky. Tickets went on sale May 10, and you’d better act fast to get a spot on that tractor.

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Tags: Hamburgers, Molly Moon's, Cafe Presse, Whole Foods, Ethan Stowell, Elliott Bay Book Co, Microdistilleries, Free Food, Top Pot, Washington Wines, Cookbooks, Benefit Dinners, Wine, Wineries, Skelly and the Bean

Critic’s Notebook

Huge Portions

Where to go when size matters.

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Gordito’s, home of gigantic burritos. Photo via HubPages.

Of course you’re not a glutton.

But every once in awhile a girl’s gotta eat a burrito as big as a baby.

“Ew, yuck,” my daughter winced on walking into Gordito’s Healthy Mexican Food in Greenwood last week. All over the entryway are photos quantifying Gordito’s favorite “big as a baby” descriptor for its burritos grandes. Turns out two large flour tortillas crammed with meat, beans, rice, lettuce, sour cream, guac, and chunky salsa is just a scoch smaller than a newborn human. Just look at the (sort of disturbing) pictures.

We had the regular, thank you. It was fine with smoky pork and healthy tasting vegetables.

I’m always writing about quality. Gordito’s got me thinking about restaurants known for their quantity. Huge portions were a big novelty deal in the ‘70s—who remembers the size of the burgers and desserts at the Great American Food & Beverage Company on Eastlake?—and remain in fashion in certain sorts of places.

Like steakhouses. Metropolitan Grill and Morton’s are two with extreme-sized side dishes. A Morton’s baked potato is about the size of a nuclear submarine.

As for pizza, there’s Northlake Tavern’s notorious cheese-loaded heavyweights; for burgers, Burger Madness’ 5-, 10-, or 12-patty monsters (which earn you prizes if you finish one in under 30 minutes); for anytime breakfast, Beth’s Café’s 12-egg omelets.

Then you can head to North Capitol Hill’s Kingfish Café for one of its plate-sized slices of red velvet layer cake—and repent tomorrow.

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Tags: Hamburgers, Pizza, Metropolitan Grill, Burgers, Mexican Cuisine, Critic's Notebook, Steakhouse, Beth's Cafe, Kingfish Cafe

Critic’s Notebook

Which Am I More Willing to Give Up: One Year of My Life or a Well-Marbled Rib Eye?

What last week’s red meat buzzkill from Harvard means for meat lovers.

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Proceed with caution? Steak at John Howie.

Last week came the bombshell that consumption of red meat is associated with a higher risk of early death.

It was a 20-year study, of more than 120,000 people, done by the reputable Harvard School of Public Health. Very persuasive. Dispiriting for avid carnivores. News to no one.

I got the word—I’m not kidding—over a heaping plate of prime rib eye at Manhattan Drugs. (Way to harsh a girl’s mellow, tablemates.) Increased risk of fatal heart disease and terminal cancer, I learned between bites. Nicely marbled bites.

“But don’t worry,” they consoled. “Steak isn’t as bad as hot dogs.” Processed meats, full of sodium and nitrites, indeed weighed in higher on the heartstopper index. Maybe soon wiener joints will be compelled to post those cheery fine-print snippets on their menus, about how the food you’re now consuming could be the fast-track to the morgue. Enjoy!

None of this is a surprise, of course; we beef-lovers have long known that our habit isn’t so healthy. The wisest among us have tempered our consumption of red meat while tweaking our other habits: upping good carbs (vegetables, legumes, soy products) and reducing bad ones (refined flours, high-fructose corn syrup); upping good fats (omega-3s) and reducing bad ones (trans and saturated, to name two).

Indeed, one criticism of the study was that it may have been measuring the results of correlating factors as much as the results of red-meat intake. The study pointed out that a higher red-meat intake was associated with lower intakes of whole grains, vegetables, and fruits.

I eat whole grains, vegetables, and fruits! Plenty of ‘em!

As ever, it comes down to moderation—and a sense of proportion. According to a Cambridge biostatistician, the Harvard study’s most quoted claim—that red meat-eaters have a 13 percent extra risk of dying—actually amounts to one year of life. The difference between living to 79 and living to 80.

Now I don’t mean to be glib about a very real health risk, I don’t. But after much thought I’ve concluded that the occasional L’il Woody’s Pendleton burger, Cuoco bistecca, and Canlis steak tartare accords me more life-giving joy than my 80th birthday will likely bring.

I’m just sayin’.

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Tags: Hamburgers, Canlis, Critic's Notebook, Manhattan Drugs, Steakhouse

Restaurant News

BuiltBurger is Closing

This week is your last chance to enjoy the Pioneer Square shop’s distinctive patties.

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BuiltBurger photo by Geoffrey Smith.

A few phone calls to BuiltBurger last week were met with hesitant “no comment” responses, but today the Pioneer Square burger joint sent out an email confirming the sad news: BuiltBurger is closing. According to the email from owners David and Rebecca Makuen, “We are re-locating to the East Coast to start a new chapter. We have decided to ‘pause’ the BuiltBurger brand.”

The final burgers will be sold on Friday, December 2. BuiltBurger began as a patty wholesaler and opened its Pioneer Square shop in late 2010. The big draw: fixings ground right into the meat, as well as some tasty potato beignets. Make your way there this week to bid a sad adieu to its decadent wares.

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Tags: Hamburgers, Closings, Seattle Restaurant Closings, Burgers

Nosh on the Streets

Sorting Through Street Food at Mobile Food Rodeo

Notes on the state of our mobile fare.

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Food trucks at Mobile Food Rodeo

Photo: Mobilefoodrodeo.com

First, the disclosure: Seattle Met was among the sponsors of last Saturday’s Mobile Food Rodeo, an event at which I was one of many judges dispatched to weigh in on the “Wagon Awards.” The awards honored the best dishes served up on Seattle streets.

But I am not here to promote the event. Rather, I wanted to share some things I observed while sampling about 25 dishes made by trucks from Seattle and Portland.

Second, the background: My coworker Chris Werner is a street foods enthusiast, and he has been so thorough and punctilious in his coverage of mobile foods that I have hitherto left the sampling up to him, busying myself with things like cocktails and brick-and-mortar eateries. This meant that I had only tried a few of the 20-odd trucks on hand this weekend.

Having now been exposed to most of our mobile offerings, here are some of my takeaway observations:

1. The best food trucks are doing something idiosyncratic—meaning easily identifiable as theirs and theirs alone—and doing that thing well. A paradigm of the model is Street Donuts, which serves up baby dough rings with toppings like a dusting of Nerds candies or roasted peanuts, and curry sauce. Even if you find donuts as unexciting as I do, you will notice right away that the Street Donuts cooks are masters of their craft. These little donuts melt in your mouth and the flavors sing out clearly. For me, this was the surprise hit of the bunch.

In contrast, the several trucks dishing up hamburgers were hard to distinguish from one another, and none could stand up to what’s served out of Skillet’s airstream trailer. It’s simply one of the best burgers you’ll find anywhere.

2. When judging street food, wear elastic pants and don’t make dinner plans.

3. Is Parfait the best ice cream in town? I’m thinking it might be.

4. Watching Trophy Cupcakes and Party owner Jennifer Shea judge a cupcake is an experience every person should have.

5. Finally, based on what I experienced, here’s a list of not-to-be-missed mobile-food dishes around Seattle:

-Picadillo (Cuban-style hash) from Lee Scott’s new truck Snout and Co. It’s ground beef with chopped tomatoes, green olives, bell peppers, raisins, and spices. This is served on rice and then a big-old plantain chip is stuck into the bowl. A glorious, soul-warming dish and a tailgater’s dream come true.

-The duck confit on puffy flatbread from Big Food Mobile. This is an inspiring example of great food served up in the most casual of circumstances.

-A burger and a side of poutine from Skillet. But we knew this, right?

-An oyster po boy from Where Ya At Matt. At the Mobile Food Rodeo, Matt Lewis presented gumbo as his signature dish, but it is the po boy that is his crowning achievement, in my opinion.

-Curry-covered donuts from Street Donuts.

Anything I missed?

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Tags: Hamburgers, Street Food, Seattle Food Events, Mobile Food Rodeo, Street Donuts

Checking In

The Future of Lunchbox Lab

What is the plan for the SLU hamburger joint following the loss of founder Scott Simpson?

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Lunchbox Lab will be around “for many years to come” says owner John Schmidt.

Photo: Facebook

Over the past few months, I’ve been asked a lot if I knew what might happen to Lunchbox Laboratory in light of the tragic death of its founder, Scott Simpson, in March. I did not. So I thought it was time to check in.

The truth is, even before the loss of Simpson, the hamburger joint’s future never felt fully secure. From the moment it opened at its original Ballard location, Lunchbox enjoyed the devotion of a carnivorous customer base that sung its praises at a fever pitch. But as popular as it was, many derided the restaurant for unpredictable hours, inconsistent food, and unsanitary conditions. Since the move to South Lake Union, management has been working to maintain regular hours, a more consistent product, and clean conditions, says John Schmidt. Schmidt and his partners took over ownership and management at the time of the relocation.

“There have been numerous changes implemented to strengthen what was…a struggling business model,” says Schmidt, owner of Neighborhood Grills. “The changes are big and small, but all in the name of providing the best gourmet burgers and hand-dipped shakes in the nation.”

And despite the loss of Simpson and the diminished involvement of cofounder Allegra Waggener (now working “in an advisory role” for the restaurant), Schmidt says he and his partners expect Lunchbox “to be around for many years to come.”

While the focus for the moment is on “refining the overall experience of our guest,” future expansion shouldn’t be ruled out. As Schmidt told the Seattle Times’ Nancy Leson back in December: “Growth is what we’re about.”

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Tags: Hamburgers, South Lake Union

Restaurant Reviews

Critic Watch: Uneeda ’Nother Review of Uneeda Burger?

You got it! Three local critics weigh in on one burger joint.

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The waffle fries at Uneeda Burger are “terrific,” says Providence Cicero.

Right, so. Not as many articles here as we had with Revel, but three local reviews of Scott Staples’ Fremont burger joint, Uneeda Burger, give us plenty to compare.

Let’s begin at the beginning with The Stranger’s Lindy West, who went to Uneeda back in February and ordered one each of the regular burger (made with Painted Hills beef) and the Waygu burger, a $4 upgrade.

Then she blind-tasted them to see if she could tell the difference.

First of all, let me say that both burgers were excellent. Nothing wrong with relatively well-off suburban cows. Painted Hills, A+. HOWEVER. The Wagyu burger was a revelation. I mean literally like the book of Revelation, like eight flaming man-goats descended on fiery Segways and beat me in the face with their righteous swords of deliciousness….The Wagyu patty was soft without being insubstantial, drippier, darker, and beefier than its counterpart. The Wagyu burger made you forget that ketchup exists. Seriously, it was so good. If my mother were a cow, I would still eat this hamburger. If I were a hamburger, I would eat this hamburger. If I were this hamburger, I would eat myself.

Three months later, Uneeda got a write-up in the Seattle Weekly from newcomer Hanna Raskin.

Much space was given over to an interview with Staples regarding concept and execution, and some was spent describing the presence of kids at Uneeda burger (“The adults responsible for the infants within don’t needa burger; they needa babysitter”). But there was plenty about the food too. Raskin’s advice: order your burger nude.

It’s a shame more customers don’t treat themselves to Uneeda’s naked burger, as the subtle, drippy meat is too easily eclipsed by the strong flavors of ingredients that are more bistro than ballpark. A burger seasoned with ritzy-sounding black-truffle salt and trimmed with deeply sautéed button mushrooms, shallots, and Gruyère tastes like a solidified French onion soup. And woe to the customers who waste their Wagyu dollars on a burger smeared with a vinegary, Lexington-style barbecue sauce and capped with a wig of faintly greasy fried onions. It’s not a bad sandwich, but it relegates beef to a nonspeaking role.

The very next day there came a review from The Seattle Times’ Providence Cicero. She bestowed three stars upon Uneeda Burger, complimenting just about everything on the menu. The only hint of negativity came when she mentioned that the line was long. Once.

And Cicero begs to differ with Ms. West on the matter of the Waygu upgrade.

If you don’t mind paying almost twice the price, you can substitute local Wagyu beef, delicious but really not necessary. The Painted Hills beef has great flavor. Every patty, griddled to a careful and consistent medium-rare, blushes a faint pink in the middle. Toasted, butter-slicked buns capture the gushing juice.

In the immortal words of Frank Zappa: “Hey, that sounds delicious.”

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Tags: Hamburgers, Fremont, Critic Watch

Food News/Burgermania

BuiltBurger Opens for Dinner

New month, new hours.

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Dinner is served at BuiltBurger in Pioneer Square.

Probably because Seattleites can’t stop stuffing their faces with beefy ’wiches, Builtburger introduces expanded hours today, March 1. The Pioneer Square boite, which opened in November as a weekday lunch joint, is doing dinner on Thursday til 9 and serving Sundays from 10-4.

Other P Square luncheries, take note—your neighborhood could use more decent evening eats.

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Tags: Hamburgers, Pioneer Square, Lunch

Free Cheeseburgers at Dicks!

It’s January 25. You know what that means.

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Buy-one-get-one-free burgers all day today at Dick’s.

Check this out, I’m about to save you, like, $1.40.

Yup, it’s that day of the year again. Dick’s is celebrating its 57th birthday. And you know what that means: Buy one cheeseburger, get a second free. This offer is good between 2pm and 6:30 on Tuesday, January 25.

But wait, there’s more: On Friday, January 31, all sodas—regardless of size—will cost you just ten cents. Ten cents! One dime! Do they even make dimes anymore?! What’s with all the exclamation points! I don’t know!

The offer is good at any of the five Dick’s Drive-in locations around town.

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Tags: Hamburgers, Seattle Restaurants, Seattle Food Deals, Dick's Drive-In

Builtburger, Now Building Burgers in Pioneer Square

The first restaurant from the custom-patty company is open.

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Builtburger has opened in Pioneer Square.

Fancy-hamburger joint Builtburger has opened at 217 James Street, bringing the first dedicated burger restaurant to the downtown area.

The restaurant is the first from the burger company, which came into life about a year and a half ago as a frozen-patty delivery service.

The burgers are stuffed with cheese, veggies, and meats to delicious effect. Builtburger is also offering beer and wine, and, for dessert, cupcakes from Trophy.

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Tags: Hamburgers, Seattle Restaurant Openings

Freebie File

Vote, Get Free Fries at The Counter

The burger joint rewards the democratically inclined.

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The Counter in Ballard is giving away free fries Election Day.

It’s a beautiful day for democracy, isn’t it?

To celebrate your right to vote, Ballard burger bar The Counter is giving out free fries. To get in on the deal you have to have voted—which you’ve already taken care of, right?—and purchase one of the 312,120 items off the menu. Then, say “I voted.” And say it with pride.

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Tags: Hamburgers, Ballard, Free Food

Edmonds Gets Dick’s

Seattle’s oldest hamburger chain announces its newest location.

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Edmonds is the site of the new Dick’s, the company announced this morning.

Dick’s Drive-In announced this morning that its sixth location will be in Edmonds, a quiet beach community just north of Seattle.

To drum up attention for its new restaurant, Dick’s conducted an online poll this fall; customers voted on the area of town where they’d most like to see it go. North Seattle—which included Shoreline, Mountlake Terrace, Lynnwood, Edmonds, and South Everett—won.

Read more about this momentous development on the Seattle PI’s website.

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Tags: Hamburgers, Promotions, Seattle Restaurant Openings, Restaurant News, Edmonds

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