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Posts tagged with: 2011 in Food

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Critic's Notebook

Top Five Restaurant Openings of 2011

Lots of newbies…but which were best?

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The tidy, white-and-celery Skillet Diner is one of our new favorites.

Like 2010, this year brought spinoffs aplenty, with restaurateurs like Tom Douglas colonizing in earnest—in his case, South Lake Union (see Serious Pie, Serious Biscuit, Ting Momo, Brave Horse Tavern, and Cuoco.) Jason Stratton of Cascina Spinasse brought us his Italian aperitif masterpiece Artusi, Maria Hines of Tilth delivered her ode to the Arab Spring in the form of Golden Beetle, and Scott Staples of Quinn’s enhanced his portfolio with Uneeda Burger (even as he diminished it by Restaurant Zoe).

Mobile operations like Marination Station, A La Mode Pies, Seattle Sausage Company (which would become Dot’s Delicatessen), and Skillet Street Food went bricks-and-mortar, while Mexican food went the new-restaurant equivalent of viral. (Openings included Poquitos on Capitol Hill, Kirkland’s Milagro Cantina, Coa on Roosevelt, Fremont’s Pecado Bueno, Eastlake’s Little Water Cantina, and the jaw-dropping Queen Anne sister to La Carta de Oaxaca, Mezcaleria Oaxaca.)

But of all the openings, five stood out as superstars. In alphabetical order, they are:

Altura Shhh…open since just October, it hasn’t been operating long enough for my print review to come out. At the risk of spoiling the surprise, let’s just say this North Capitol Hill beaut fires on every cylinder and then some: creative and seasonal Italian food; a romantic space presided over by at least one member of the heavenly host; and some of the most gracious service I have encountered in Seattle.

Bar del Corso Look up “neighborhood restaurant” in the dictionary and there’s a picture of the burbling happy room that’s made Beacon Hill dwellers lose their minds. Perfect wood-oven pizza, nice bitter cocktails, Euro nibbles and salads, and all the community you could ever want—in one deafening room.

Coterie Room Thank you, Dana Tough and Brian McCracken (Spur Gastropub, Tavern Law), for opening a restaurant that’s brought a little life and beauty back to Belltown. The schtick in this elegant white fin de siècle room is timeless comfort food (grilled rib eye, buttermilk chicken) brought off to a turn, with all the modern methods chefs love to employ but hate to own up to.

Revel Sue me, it opened the tail-end of 2010. The folks who brought you Joule have trained their perfectionist eye on Asian street food, and the short rib rice bowls with kimchee and pork belly pancakes and warming morning porridge are simply the most exuberant thing to happen around here all year. A treasure.

Skillet Diner The Pike/Pine neighborhood of Capitol Hill is breathless over its clattering drop-in diner, where the fried chicken has a fennel seed crust and the grilled cheese is made with brie. It all adds up to the perfect ratio of foofy-to-fun, in a tidy white-and-celery space where the cocktails go down like Kool-Aid. Don’t say you weren’t warned.

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Tags: Seattle Restaurant Openings, Skillet, Revel, 2011 in Food, Altura, Coterie Room, Bar del Corso

Critic's Notebook

Top 10 Dishes of 2011: Revel Manila Clam Soup

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‘Twas a fine, fine year to be hungry in Seattle. For ten days I’m reminiscing about just how fine, in my annual recap of the top ten plates of the year.

#1 No recent debut has made a bigger impact than Revel, the Joule folks’ fizzy and utterly original tribute to the street food of Asia. Their ever-changing menu is consistently impressive, but I remain smitten by the Manila clam soup, which arrived wrapped in veils of steam, heady with shallots and scallions and Serrano chiles, sesame and basil and brine. Every slurp was as complex as it was satisfying, and loaded with global references. The hand-cut Thai basil noodles recalled Italian papardelle en brodo, the shallots and zucchini tasted French—all in a recipe that’s a classic of the Korean genre, pulled off with these chefs’ zeal for scrupulously local ingredients, in this case herbs and clams. Genius.

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Tags: Critic's Notebook, Top Ten Dishes of 2011, 2011 in Food

Critic's Notebook

Top 10 Dishes of 2011: Dot’s Deli Steak Frites

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Photo courtesy of Dot’s Deli.

‘Twas a fine, fine year to be hungry in Seattle. For ten days I’m reminiscing about just how fine, in my annual recap of the top ten plates of the year.

#2 The hands-down coolest surprise of 2011 was Dot’s Deli, the butcher shop-slash-charcuterie-slash-brat house in Fremont where owner and chef Miles James can whip a grass-fed hunk of bloody New York strip out of the case, toss it on the grill, crust it up just the way you like it—we know you like it cool pink inside—and plop it down before you with a mess of peanut-oiled fries that spent a full two days lolling about in water to leach their starches out. The result is a plate of steak frites that knocked my carnivorous little socks off—meat thick but tender and improbably moist, fries crispy and clean—in a space so affable and unpretentious you’ll want to come back tomorrow night too. Grand idea.

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Critic's Notebook

Top 10 Dishes of 2011: Cuoco Bistecca

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Photo: Sarah Flotard, courtesy Cuoco.

‘Twas a fine, fine year to be hungry in Seattle. For ten days I’m reminiscing about just how fine, in my annual recap of the top ten plates of the year.

#3 No disrespect to the pasta at Tom Douglas’s South Lake Union pasta house, Cuoco, that its best dish is a steak—the pasta’s plenty good, but the bistecca is great. It’s dry-aged Washington rib steak, served (in two sizes) on a huge platter of grilled bread salad. As I wrote in our August issue: “Good bitter greens and roasted peppers and tender spring onions conspired with the rib steak—served in smoky, gloriously marbled slices—and Tuscan bread and curls of fine Parmesan to produce a major romp for the palate.” A brilliant earthy idea, brought off flawlessly by pros. Bravo Cuoco.

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Tags: Critic's Notebook, Top Ten Dishes of 2011, 2011 in Food

Critic's Notebook

Top 10 Dishes of 2011: Cascina Spinasse Tajarin

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‘Twas a fine, fine year to be hungry in Seattle. For ten days I’m reminiscing about just how fine, in my annual recap of the top ten plates of the year.

#4 I’ve become a broken record, recommending Cascina Spinasse to everyone for everything, but it genuinely keeps getting better, from the more spacious sexy interior to the whip-smart servers to the chicory salad with marinated rabbit to the terrina de torrone (vanilla gelato terrine) for dessert. But damn if it’s not the city’s best pasta, the tajarin in ragu or in sage butter—okay, they’re tied for best—that takes the prize all over again. The pasta’s delicate and rich, with sauces that are subtle and bold (particularly the ragu). Impossible and true—every time I order it.

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Critic's Notebook

Top 10 Dishes of 2011: Serious Biscuit Ham Biscuit

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Photo courtesy Serious Biscuit.

‘Twas a fine, fine year to be hungry in Seattle. For ten days I’m reminiscing about just how fine, in my annual recap of the top ten plates of the year.

#5 The tiny Westlake biscuit bar started as Dahlia Workshop, became Serious Biscuit —and given owner Tom Douglas’s penchant for changing names, may well be on its fifth sign by the time you read this. As long as they don’t mess with the ham biscuit, we’re good. Double-park outside if you have to (the joint closes at 3pm) and run inside for the goods: a golden biscuit, crisp and square and almost creamy within, sliced and stuffed with housemade ham, plenty of gooey egg yolk, melting Beecher’s cheddar, and apple mustard. The sweet-meets-savory intelligence of this beast vies for prominence with its sheer comfort-yumminess, making it a classic of the Tom Douglas school and, at $8, one of the best bangs-for-buck in town.

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Critic's Notebook

Top 10 Dishes of 2011: Coterie Room Poutine

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‘Twas a fine, fine year to be hungry in Seattle. For ten days I’m reminiscing about just how fine, in my annual recap of the top ten plates of the year.

#6 What kind of a freak invented poutine? You know, that hot Canadian mess of fries and gravy with cheese curds? (Someone with no doctor, apparently.) Well, Coterie Room has reinvented it. Belltown’s latest beaut, from chefs Dana Tough and Brian McCracken, is an homage to luscious comfort food, revised with the methods of modernist cuisine and a couple of knowing palates. So the fries are blanched and cooked long to stay crisp, the gravy is reduced from pork shoulder and pig’s feet to approximate a rich demi-glace, the cheese is a breaded Beecher’s curd crispy outside and goopy within. Then the real distinction: a mess of herbs and greens on top, perfumed and verdant, to leaven the whole. The result offers more precision, fine flavor, and finesse than the run of gloppy poutines, without a whisper of post-prandial regret. And damn it’s fun to eat.

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Critic's Notebook

Top 10 Dishes of 2011: A la Mode Apple Pear Ginger Pie

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‘Twas a fine, fine year to be hungry in Seattle. For ten days I’m reminiscing about just how fine, in my annual recap of the top ten plates of the year.

#7 Call 2011 the Year of the Pie Shop …but the one that had my socks rolling up and down was more butter and sugar than bricks and mortar. A la Mode Pies was pie maestro Chris Porter’s online bakery—you order, he’d deliver—so my first taste of his signature apple pear ginger pie with the all-butter crust came directly to my door, in a box smartly tied in a bow. Best pie I’d ever tasted: from the gnarled golden top crust, whisper-light and flavorful, through the sweet surprised-by-ginger filling, all the way down to the toothsome bottom pastry. Unbelievable. Last month Baker opened a bona-fide shop on Phinney, right across from the zoo. I think he got tired of driving to my house.

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Critic's Notebook

Top 10 Dishes of 2011: Bar del Corso Pizza

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‘Twas a fine, fine year to be hungry in Seattle. For ten days I’m reminiscing about just how fine, in my annual recap of the top ten plates of the year.

#8 Sparkly, neighborhood joints specializing in extraordinary wood-fired pizza have in the last half-dozen-or-so years become a thing in this town, which isn’t much newsworthy unless you know how awful pizza was in Seattle before that. Beacon Hill is the latest neighborhood thus blessed, with the happy, crowded energy of Bar del Corso. Pizzaiolo Jerry Corso makes pies so special I’m not going to choose between them—see here a seasonal clam pie—because the best part’s the wood-fired crust anyway. From my scribbled notes: “Crust is elastic, with enough breadiness to provide a satisfying sinky chew but crispy without, with nice char bubbles.” Corso’s taste in toppings is peerless; he also makes a frisky salad. Beacon Hill, your ship has come in.

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Critic's Notebook

Top 10 Dishes of 2011: Madison Park Conservatory Stokesberry Farms Roast Chicken

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Photo: Courtesy Suzanne Strong

The pantry at Madison Park Conservatory.

‘Twas a fine, fine year to be hungry in Seattle. For ten days I’m reminiscing about just how fine, in my annual recap of the top ten plates of the year.

#9 Madison Park Conservatory opened at the creamy lakeside end of Madison as one of the lookers of the year—and often, with chef Cormac Mahoney at the helm, one of the cookers of the year. The place didn’t quite make my Top 25 Restaurants, plagued as it is with the more-than-sometimes quizzical pairing or execution slip-up…but the wild success of dishes like the Stokesberry Farms roast chicken I savored last February prove that when you’re dealing with artists, inconsistency can be the price you pay for occasional greatness. Yeah it was chicken, but it was organic and sustainable chicken, extravagantly flavorful, roasted golden, moist from stem to stern (no mean trick), lavished with lemon-drizzled watercress, pocked with walnuts, and sweetened with luscious prunes. I’d have licked the plate but I’m pretty sure Madison Park has a rule against that.

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Critic's Notebook

Top 10 Dishes of 2011: Lecosho Porchetta

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‘Twas a fine, fine year to be hungry in Seattle. For ten days I’m reminiscing about just how fine, in my annual recap of the top ten plates of the year.

#10 When Lecosho opened on the Harbor Steps, owner Matt Janke was all about pork (Lecosho means pig in Chinook), and offered it in numerous incarnations on a notably numster menu. One of them in particular kind of made me lose my mind. And I quote, from the March issue of Seattle Met: “The stunner among the pork dishes was the Lecosho porchetta, a glistening slice of pork tenderloin-stuffed pork belly, encrusted with herbs, over a shallow bed of rustic, fragrant white bean and baby turnip ragout. It’s a rare thing to know from bite one that a dish is destined to become a house signature, if not a city-wide all-star, but this one, with its vivid seasonings and satisfying meatiness, screams its legendary status.” At lunchtime they sometimes jam that same juicy meat into a grilled ciabatta roll with plenty of aioli, guaranteeing more fun than one should really be allowed before nightfall.

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Tags: Critic's Notebook, Top Ten Dishes of 2011, 2011 in Food

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