Seattle Met Taste Test: Gelato
Twelve tasters lap up 14 scoops from seven gelato shops.
Posted by: Seattle Met staff on Aug 09, 2011 at 10:04AM
7 Comments
Bottega Italiana: Chocolate
The Verdict The texture was uneven: at times it was light and perfectly smooth, other licks were chalky. Still, the intensely dark savor won over chocolate buffs.
View Slideshow » Illustration:ViaVita Cafe and Wine Bar: Fennel Pollen
The Verdict Initially put off by the jaundiced tint, the crowd was nonetheless intrigued by the creative flavor combo, and quickly wowed by the natural, fresh tang: “This is nature’s Good & Plenty,” enthused one panelist. “Like licorice without all the fake stuff,” echoed another.
View Slideshow » Illustration:THIRD PLACE WINNER!
Sirena Gelato: Chocolate
The Verdict The finish is just right, but it was the first-rate chocolate that excited taste buds with its vibrant undertones. A favorite in Bellingham, Sirena recently opened a Kirkland storefront.
View Slideshow » Illustration:D’Ambrosio Gelato: Chocolate
The Verdict Lots of potential, with an indulgent chocolate silkiness. Several spoonfuls in, however, and tasters were comparing the mixture to mousse and pudding.
View Slideshow » Illustration:SECOND PLACE WINNER! (TIE)
Fainting Goat: Pistachio
The Verdict Tasters heralded the purity of the pistachio (“dead on,” “the perfect flavor,” and “exactly how pistachio should taste”), made better by evenly distributed flecks of the nut.
View Slideshow » Illustration:Gelatiamo: Hazelnut
The Verdict Gelatiamo nailed this one, the most traditional of gelato flavors. A tad sweet for some, but all relished the spot-on taste—like eating hazelnuts without the crunch, they said. A close runner-up.
View Slideshow » Illustration:SECOND PLACE WINNER! (TIE)
Procopio: Pineapple Basil
The Verdict Though less traditional, tasters took to the icy, almost slushy texture, deeming this the most refreshing of the bunch. Points for the unique (and well-balanced) flavor combo; the lingering and delicate pineapple had us clamoring for rum.
View Slideshow » Illustration:Fainting Goat: Chocolate
The Verdict More of a mild chocolate, it paled in comparison to the richer submissions. Would be a good balance to another, more pronounced scoop.
View Slideshow » Illustration:Sirena Gelato: Sea Salt Caramel
The Verdict Commendable mouthfeel but quite buttery—a lot of caramel, not enough of the promised sea salt.
View Slideshow » Illustration:FIRST PLACE WINNER!
Gelatiamo: Chocolate
The Verdict Owner Maria Coassin brought from the Boot several generations’ worth of culinary study, which she masterfully applies to gelato. (Said one eater: “This tastes European to me.”) The texture—creamy yet dense—coupled with a strikingly complex chocolate (the hints of dark were a nice surprise) made this a top-notch submission. Tasters couldn’t help but go back in for seconds.
View Slideshow » Illustration:D’Ambrosio Gelato: Pistachio
Considering D’Ambrosio’s rabid fan base, we were surprised when the Ballard Ave shop didn’t top our list. But the emphasis on ingredient wasn’t lost on the panel: tasters made note of the nutty zing of the pistachios (a Sicilian variety sourced directly from Italy), and their pleasing, lingering aftertaste. Points were docked for texture.
View Slideshow » Illustration:Bottega Italiana: Salted Caramel Chocolate Chip
The Verdict Too sweet. The caramel overwhelmed and imparted more of a butterscotch or toffee taste. “The flavor is so powerful you don’t really get the refreshing part.”
View Slideshow » Illustration:ViaVita Cafe and Wine Bar: Chocolate
The Verdict We couldn’t get past the consistency. Mudslides, French silk pies, and Jello snack packs all came to mind.
View Slideshow » Illustration:Procopio: Chocolate
The Verdict A muted, barely there milky chocolate. The texture was airy. (Little known fact: Gelato is supposed to have less air content by volume than ice cream.)
By Abby Tracy and Christopher Werner
Gelato is like ice cream, only different. It has less butterfat, for one. Ice cream has a minimum fat content of 10 percent, while Italian gelato hovers between four and eight. True gelato is a mixture of 70 percent milk, 10 percent cream, and 17 percent sugar, according to Marco D’Ambrosio, owner of the very popular D’Ambrosio gelateria in Ballard. The balance is made up of “other ingredients,” which may include eggs, water, thickening agents, and of course flavorings.
Because it’s sweetly refreshing yet lighter than ice cream, gelato just may be the ideal summer treat. Lucky for us, Seattle is dripping with the stuff.
You could traverse town trying this-and-that flavor until you find a favorite, but let’s be real, who has time for that? Leave the homework to us.
To find out which spots are mixing the best batches, we contacted scratch gelaterias in the area and asked them to submit a tub of chocolate and a second flavor of their choice. Those that agreed to participate are represented here. A panel of 12 blindly sampled the submissions one by one, stopping only to assuage the occasional brain freeze. Gelato with a velvet-dense texture tended to score high, as did those with bright, pure flavors.
For tasting notes and a rundown of our favorites, scroll through the slideshow.
All photos by Seattlemet.com photographer Lucas Anderson.
Gelatiamo’s Rice flavor is incredibly delicious as well. Contrary to what the name might illustrate, it tastes fresh and has a nice chewy texture in some bites. But I was warned that it’s only seasonal!
Not that I would consider Costco on the same level as these gelatarias, however, I noticed that the downtown location was serving gelato in its food court. Has anyone tried yet?
wrong answer for Bottega Italiana- It is with out a doubt, Salted Carmel with Chocolate. It is one of the three best flavors I have ever had and that includes ones from Florence. I take every guest from out of town there- and they all say it is the best they have ever tasted!
You omitted another fantastic gelato business: Gelato"icious-500 SE Everett Mall WAy Suite A6-Everett WA-Across street from Target-and no I am not the owner or staff person, but a loyal customer!In addition to gelato, other Italian desserts, Yum- Great service and the personalities of all of the staff that work there, outstanding, a MUST visit for all.
All of the area Costco’s may be doing daily house made Gelato now. I tried So Seattle (Costco #1) and it was a bit softer than I might like but pretty tasty. Hard to beat 3 scoops in a waffle cone for $1.5.
My favorite place to get real gelato is ViaDolce in Leavenworth. The amaretto and panna flavors are to die for!
Salt caramel from the Gelato Bar at Metropolitan Market (Lower Queen Anne/Uptown) is the equal of anything I’ve had in Italy. Buy a pint for $7.99.