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Former Quinn’s Toque Launches Spanish Caravan Catering

Hopes to one day turn it into a restaurant or mobile kitchen.

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Peppers stuffed with herbed goat cheese. Photo courtesy Spanish Caravan Catering.

A year shy of shacking up in Seatown and taking a top kitchen gig at Quinn’s, Brian Parks got the boot from the Capitol Hill gastropub in May. While he’ll admit surprise at the dismissal, it’s paved way for Parks’s new venture: Spanish Caravan Catering.

The B-Man is better suited to Iberian eats anyways. Before relocating with his wife, Jenny, Parks spent almost a decade in New York City honing Mediterranean cuisine at several big-name establishments. Among them: the now-closed Oznot’s Dish in Brooklyn, Mario Batali’s decidedly Spanish Casa Mono, and the tapas and wine bar Buceo 95.

Though Caravan is basically a one-man-show, its ambitious menu runs deep—on it find tapas and pintxos, “bocadilllo boxes,” five-course meals, and of course, paella (six varieties, in fact). If you find the lengthy list of choices overwhelming, opt for Parks’s favorites: oxtail stuffed piquillo peppers, fideos (like a paella, but with pasta instead of rice), and grilled asparagus with egg and truffles.

The idea is to cater parties of 100 or less—kind of like Parks’s wedding, a fete of about 70 people that was “small and focused,” he says—but in due time that will likely change. Parks is already envisioning bigger things for his new biz, like converting Caravan into an actual van that would travel the city or giving it its own brick-and-mortar address.

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Tags: Chefs, Chef Drama

First Look: Din Tai Fung

Global chain restaurant Din Tai Fung set to start steaming soup dumplings this fall.

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Photo: Jessica Voelker

The Din Tai Fung training suite. Employees train for four months before they’re speedy enough to staff the giant dumpling house. That’s a lot of training.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jessica Voelker

The Din Tai Fung training suite. Employees train for four months before they’re speedy enough to staff the giant dumpling house. That’s a lot of training.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jessica Voelker

A Taiwanese master chef shows the new rollers how its done.

View Slideshow » Photo: Jessica Voelker

In addition to soup dumplings, the restaurant will offer these Gzosa-shaped steamers as well as the little round parcels known as shiaomai.

I have to admit, I was kinda hoping someone would slip me a soup dumpling when I visited the construction site/training facility of Din Tai Fung yesterday. No such luck. In fact, there was no cooking happening at all.

When I arrived at dumpling class—held in a suite down the hall from where the second-floor Lincoln Square restaurant is being built—about 25 members of the 80-person staff were hovered diligently over butcher-block tables, rolling dough into identical disks. They were learning not only how to roll the dumplings, but how to roll them fast—when the restaurant opens this fall, they will be feeding 300-plus tables of hungry locals. Speed, says franchisee David Wasielewski, is essential.

Din Tai Fung originated in Taipai, Taiwan. It now has branches in six countries (its Hong Kong restaurant recently received a Michelin star) and is known especially for xiao long bao—soup dumplings—though it serves rice and noodle dishes and other sorts of dumplings too. I asked Wasielewski why he picked Bellevue. He said that Eastside execs—from Microsoft, Expedia, etc—are already familiar with Din Tai Fung from their corporate travels in Asia, as are a lot of the frequent fliers holed up in nearby Westin and Hyatt hotels.

At the same time, Wasielewski thinks he can appeal to weekenders who come to Lincoln Square for a movie or to bowl at Lucky Strike Lanes. Everything on Din Tai Fung’s menu is $10 and under, and it will be open for lunch, dinner, and late-night snacks. “We’re not in the bar business,” says Wasielewski, who is careful to point out he’s not trying to compete with Joey’s and the like for cocktail dollars. Still, the 7,000 square-foot restaurant (the kitchen takes up almost half of the total space) will have bar and lounge area, and there are plans to incorporate a happy hour drink menu.

Translucent when cooked, the skins of soup dumplings are rolled just thick enough so that the dumpling stays together. In addition to a meat or vegetable stuffing, a solid meat gelatin is wrapped inside the dumpling. When it steams, the gelatin turns to a juicy broth. The onus is on the restaurant, said Waielewski, to teach diners how to eat them without searing their tongues on the boiling-hot broth inside. (Before eating, you poke a hole in the dumpling and let the juice spill out onto your spoon.)

Din Tai Fung is set to open in late October or early November. To whet your dumpling appetite, here is a delicious segment from No Reservations, taped at a famous Shanghai restaurant.

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Tags: New Restaurants, New Restaurants, Bellevue, Openings

Food Finds

Taste of the Town: Angela Stowell

The business partner of husband Ethan talks dining out and working out.

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Angela and Ethan Stowell: partners in business and marriage. Photo courtesy Geoffrey Smith.

The most stressful part about opening a restaurant with a celebrated Seattle chef? "Waiting to hear if people enjoyed [it]… there are always kinks to be worked out. I just hope the kinks happen without being obvious to anyone but us.”

Hot off unveiling Ballard’s Staple and Fancy Mercantile, Angela Stowell, business partner and wife of Ethan, took a moment to talk up Seatown.

Vita, Stumptown, or Starbucks? Vita

Where do you take out-of-town guests to eat? Besides our restaurants, Green Leaf, Boat Street Café, and Delancy.

Do you use recipes or wing it? I leave the cooking to the professional in the house.

Favorite way to burn calories: A few years ago, I started doing triathlons, and last year I did my first full marathon. I’m racing in my first half Ironman in September. It’s nice to be training for something, to have a goal. And being able to eat whatever you want on big training days isn’t bad either.

Are you or have you ever been a vegan? No

What’s your desert-island condiment? Peanut butter

Dessert or appetizer? Appetizer

Three restaurants that sum up Seattle: Canlis (we go bar-casual), Shiro’s (Japanese cuisine is a big part of Seattle history, and Shiro is a great chef), and Dick’s Drive-In (Bill Gates and Sir-Mix-A-Lot can’t both be wrong).

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Tags: Celebrity Chefs, Food Finds, Taste of the Town

On the Tube

Seattle Stiffed by Food Network’s
America’s Best

Say whaa?

Top-ten-gold

Seattle fails to make the cut for Food Network’s America’s Best. Boo.

On Tuesday the Food Network released its lineup of upcoming shows, among them America’s Best. The four-episode special finds one Alton Brown scouring the nation for top takers in several categories: comfort food, sweets, classic regional dishes, and dining destinations.

Ten finalists have been already announced in each group (winners will be chosen during the broadcast, beginning September 20), but bogusly absent is Seattle. Now, pardon the affront, but isn’t Seattle a natch for these type of things? Just look at the flurry of national nods to hit this city in recent months.

P-Town’s Slappy Cakes makes an appearance as one of the top 10 destinations, but otherwise that’s the closest Brown gets to showing the Northwest any love.

Surely you, too, think this bunk. Which Seattle restaurants would you put on the list?

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Tags: Celebrity Chefs, TV shows, Food Network, Rankings

Street Eatin'

Seattle Met’s Street Food Finder

New, improved, and better than ever.

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Maximus Minimus. Photo by Nick Feldman.

In case you missed the banner yesterday, we’ve spiffied up our map of street food vendors so that it now includes more than 50 daily pit stops of our favorite four-wheeled kitchens. Also on there find new additions to the scene, like El Camión ’s Ballard outpost and the always-growing list of slingers at the Queen Anne Farmers Market.

Enjoy your street feast!

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Tags: Street Eats

New, yet Old

Twisted Cork Reopens

It’s back at the Bellevue Hyatt.

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New eats for the Bellevue Hyatt

Earlier this year, Twisted Cork—the wine bar and restaurant off the lobby of Bellevue’s Hyatt—finally gave up the ghost after a difficult time trying to transition from its original identity as 0/8 Seafood Grill and Twisted Cork Wine Bar. The brainchild of radio “Chef Dan” Thiessen, the restaurant and wine bar struggled to distinguish itself within the growing field of Bellevue restaurants—and struggled to perform consistently within the demanding three-meals-a-day mandate of a hotel restaurant.

So imagine our surprise to receive word that Twisted Cork has been revived, under the new management of the Hyatt itself.

Look for daily breakfasts, buffet to beignets to Bennies, along with tapas-style dinners and happy hours 4pm to 6pm Mon-Sat.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Bellevue, Bellevue Hiatt, Twisted Cork

Foodie Fun

Attention Cheeseheads: 1,300-Plus Artisanal Varieties Are Calling Your Name

Sample them at the Festival of Cheese, taking place Saturday at Benaroya.

Cheese

Lots of the good stuff will be at this weekend’s Festival of Cheese.

Like many events of late, the awards ceremony for this year’s Cheese-a-Topia is branded as the Oscars equivalent of its ilk—a tired trespass, but forgiven when cheese is at the heart of things.

The shindig takes place Saturday at Benaroya Hall and is the capstone of the American Cheese Society’s four-day conference getting underway August 25. While the convention is members only, Saturday’s hoopla is open to the public—and you’re lucky it is, because this is where things get fun.

After the ceremony, the Festival of Cheese takes over Benaroya, whereupon an impressive roster of nearly 20 restaurants, (Luc, Dinette, Spring Hill, etc ) plus local wineries and breweries line the downtown performance hall. Each will serve delicious snacks, while cheesemongers will proffer samples of more than 1,300 North American varieties. Holy cow.

Michael Pollan will be there, but if you want to chat cheese with him, you’re going to have to flash mega cash; the VIP tasting is $400 a ticket. Otherwise, admission is $85 and can be secured the night of at Benaroya. Doors open at 5pm.

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Tags: Cheese, Food Events and Festivals

Bring Me the Pretty!

Five restaurants where the design is as delicious as the food.

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Photo: Jessica Voelker

A tartine at the Boat Street Cafe.

On one hand, you have the chefs and restaurateurs who believe decor should be minimal, almost nonexistent—lest the presence of a painting or two distract from the scallop seared to perfection on your plate.

And then you have those restaurants decorated within an inch of their lives, futzed up like Victorian dolls with chachkies and dohickeys that seem to proliferate before your overstimulated eyes.

In between are the pretty places. The food is great, yes, but the design makes you want to remodel your house in their images. When you’re in it not just for the food but also the pretty, I suggest you sup at one of these five lookers.

1. Sometime in your life, I want you to do this for yourself. I want you to take a weekday lunch at Sitka and Spruce. I want you order something luscious. Anything on the menu will pretty much do, a deconstructed salad Niçoise, a “chickpea puree” (Read:hummus) accompanied by a smattering of al dente carrots, a green salad—leaves piled like coats on a bed at a cocktail party—with a vinaigrette just pungent enough to keep things interesting.

You can watch Matt Dillon and his team of burly young cooks prepare your food in the open kitchen, or wander over to the little pantry along the interior wall where mason jars filled with fragrant herbs and spices line the shelves. The expression “treat yourself” is a little icky, but do it anyway, and do it here.

2. Those scarlet parasols dangling from the ceiling, the white-washed window panes, the pink-rimmed radish slices fanned out upon your tartine, farm-fresh butter beneath spread as thick as icing on a cake: Boat Street Cafe charms in so many ways, it’s difficult to talk about.

3. I don’t go to Lark a lot. For me, it’s about special occasions. I like to really do it up in this intimate little food church, with its gorgeous exposed beams, its tiny votives twinkling, its perfect little plates of drippy pork belly and crisp, oiled asparagus appearing on the table the way gifts show up under the tree on Christmas Eve. Lark is my happy place.

4. Place Pigalle is a restaurant that could only exist in Pike Place Market. It’s French-inspired, of course, and it has that creaky, narrow charm and that sense of being perched atop a watery world below. This is Seattle, yo. Seattle at its most charmingly oddball and maritime. I love the trompe l’oeil mirrored wall near the entrance—every time I go I almost walk to the left, straight into the reflection of the small dining room to my right.

And I love most the roasted chipotle chicken “sandwich.” (It’s served with some buttery toasties and roasted peppers.) What manner of magic is happening in Pigalle’s wee kitchen that they can produce chicken this juicy and crispy-skinned and…interesting? It’s as if they’re secretly produced a duck-chicken hybrid back there, because the skin is just sooo crispy. Try that chicken.

5. And then there is Tilth, tucked into a Wallingford craftsmen. You want to come here for brunch or for dinner on a summer evening when the sun stays up, so you can soak up the perfect shades of lemon and grass on the walls, the way the light sparkles all over the glassware, the smiles on peoples’ faces as they dig into their croque monsieurs (stuffed with a decadent amount of black forest ham), their mini duck burgers, and their silky fillets of sockeye salmon.

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Cooking 101

Chris Cooks: A Lesson in Chopping Onions

Watch this video and learn to stymie the sting of the irascible veggie.

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Onions: the culprits.

In this city, knowing your food is akin to knowing your ABCs. That said, consider me—a hapless gastro-wannabe with zero culinary finesse—illiterate. For this series, I’m setting out to change that. I’ll cook my way through the kitchen, document the successes and failures, and consult a local food figure to get their insight and tips.

This week’s guru: Kathleen Flinn, author of The Sharper Your Knife, the Less You Cry and creator of nonprofit cooking school Changing Courses.

Let me get a show of hands of those who can’t cut an onion without welling up like time’s up for Julia Roberts in Steel Magnolias? Ditto. For some years now I have accepted my delicate ducts, knowing full well I would forever fear those tear-turning orbs. But recently I bopped into the kitchen of knife pro Flinn. There I learned it was the way I chopped that had me crying with each cut of the onion.

To learn Flinn’s tear-free chopping techniques, watch the video below (fast forward to about two minutes in.)

If all else fails, stick your head in the freezer or open a window to let air in; the reaction stymies the sting, Flinn says.

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Tags: DIY cooking, Cooking, Cookware, Chris Cooks

Supper Club

Feast of the Week: Ventana

Once a month Joseph Conrad crafts multi-course meals covering the corners of the globe.

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All photos courtesy Ventana.

View Slideshow » Illustration:

All photos courtesy Ventana.

View Slideshow » Illustration: View Slideshow » Illustration: View Slideshow » Illustration:

What: Monthly Sunday Supper

Where: Ventana, 2323 First Ave, Belltown

Why you should go: Food tastes better over conversation, so the Ventana folks serve family-style. Executive chef Joseph Conrad kicks off the convo by personally introducing the three-course spreads inspired by a rotating regional cuisine. Past menus have hailed from northern Italy—that one meant entrees of stuffed goose, a buckwheat noodle bake, and polenta curiga, with flatbread pizza to start and Nutella panna cotta or almond rosewater biscotti to finish—as well as Cuba, Greece, and Thailand.

Cost: $25/person for three courses; $15/person to add wine pairing

Reservations: Highly recommended; call 206-441-4789

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Tags: Belltown, Special Dinners, Feast of the Week

Here piggy piggy piggy

Baconopolis! Returns, Third Year in a Row

It’s all about the exclamation point.

Bacon

Baconopolis! happens day after tomorrow folks.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010 to be exact, from 6 to 8pm at the Palace Ballroom.

For those who haven’t attended the past two years, Baconopolis! pays homage to the world’s greatest food, offering several bac-o-centric dishes ($25 per guest) along with a cash bar. And plenty of water.

This year’s speaker is Ari Weinzweig, whose new book Zingerman’s Guide to Better Bacon is the source of all eight recipes to be prepared for the event—including Dutch bacon and gouda potato salad, cheddar bacon scones, and apple bacon crisp. The meat comes from Seattle’s legendary Bavarian Meats.

Getcher tix here.

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Tags: Tom Douglas, Bacon, Palace Ballroom, Culinary Events

Varro, an All-Day Italian Bar, Opens in October (Maybe November) on Capitol Hill

You likah the Italian restaurant? Bene, here’s another one.

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Stylish mid-century Italy, immortalized in the 1960 movie La Dolce Vita, is the inspiration for Varro. The bar/cafe opens this October on Capitol Hill.

I had a chat the other day with Richard Troiani, one of the partners in Varro, the 1,600 square-foot Italian bar opening this fall in the Packard Building at the corner of 12th and Pine.

One of the questions I had for him was: Aren’t there already a lot of Italian restaurants on Capitol Hill?

Yes, agreed Troiani, who closed his eponymous downtown eatery last September. But his new spot distinguishes itself from Spinasse, Anchovies and Olives, Osteria La Spiga, and Tidbit Bistro (to name just a few) in three ways:

1. Concept: Varro is modeled after Troiani’s favorite way to eat in Italy: At casual bars—he compares them to Spain’s tapas bars—that are open all day and into the night. He says such places are always full of neighborhood people who pop in for an espresso in the morning (Varro will serve Lavazza coffees) and come back later for some lunch, and then again in the evening for a beer and a snack. You can stop by for cocktails or eat a full dinner. “It’s all good,” if you will.

From a conceptual standpoint, then, Varro resembles Oddfellows more than it does Spinasse. It’s just the food is Italian.

2. Decor: In contrast to all the sparsely appointed restaurants popping up around the town, Varro will be an elaborately decorated affair with lots of color and a collage of images from 1950s-60s Italy—that highly stylized, highly decadent era immortalized in the movie La Dolce Vita.

3. Price: Troiani has a Class-two commercial hood system in the kitchen. The upshot of this is that he’s making most of the food in a 1,100-degree wood-burning pizza oven. Look for rustically (and, given that oven, quickly) prepared proteins like chicken paillard and roasted prawns with peppers. His menu will include five or six pastas and a Calabrese sausage and peppers sandwich.

Varro’s dinner menu prices top out at $17.

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Tags: New Restaurants, Openings, Capitol Hill, Bar Openings, Italian Food

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