Wherein we ask local wine notables to make our weeknight drinking decisions for us.

Raised in New Jersey, sommelier Marc Papineau has been a Seattle resident for almost 30 years, working with wine all over the city: first at Campagne, then as wine director at (now closed) Earth & Ocean and at BOKA Kitchen and Bar, and running the wine program at the Corson Building from 2008 until last year. Now managing front-of-house at Bar Sajor and co-owner of Bar Ferd'nand, Papineau shares some of his wisdom with us.

So Marc Papineau, what should I drink tonight?

My pick is Quattro Mani, (toh-kai), Exto Gredic Vineyard, 2010. I am too excited about this wine! Tasted totally by chance, unplanned for, uncalled for—this is a living wine by Ales Kristancic of Movia Winery. Here is a guy growing and making wine by the cycles of the moon. He learned to make wine from his father, who taught him that wine is made in the grape and not in the winery.

These are younger vine tokai grapes (known as Friulano across the border in Italian Friuli), with no additives, all biodynamically grown and produced. Rich and lovely and what you need to be drinking through these wet winter evenings with a fat joint, a fire, and the one you want. It is a living wine: luscious, beautiful, and ever-changing.

Find It: Bar Ferd’nand, The London Plane, Wine World & Spirits (currently on order for re-stocking)

The Price: $14–$18