Oh, and in the process of making the celery soda, Wallace often ends up with some rich, deep, green leftovers perfect for making a cocktail-friendly celery shrub. Photo via Anna Wallace's Facebook page.

On Friday night I shepherded some out-of-town friends to Walrus and the Carpenter, and ended the night tasting the celery soda, a creation of Walrus bar manager Anna Wallace

Ho. Lee. This carbonated concoction of celery, celery seed, and lime juice—among other things—packs a  supersavory flavor akin to a bloody Mary, but lighter, fizzy, and sans booze. As my group of friends—whose palates range from “former bartender” to “please cook my salmon extra well-done”—passed the glass around, every one of us was impressed. 

Wallace is so into the idea of making thoughtful craft sodas that she has started her own enterprise, Seattle Seltzer Company. When boyfriend Russ Flint started planning the Pioneer Square location of his Rain Shadow Meats, Wallace requested ownership of one of its taps, and he bought her a business license for her birthday (awwww). And as more than a century of Jewish delis have taught us, celery soda is a natural companion for excellent, meaty sandwiches. 

“Drink it unadorned first and foremost,” Wallace advises. “It’s a great food soda,” since it’s savory, bright, and has a solid kick of acid. However it’s also an awfully friendly companion to gin and Chartreuse. Wallace recently fashioned a cocktail of celery soda, Meyer lemon, gin, and green Chartreuse; she says it’s the first time in her long history of making drinks that the trial run was good enough to be the end recipe. 

Right now Wallace’s celery soda is on tap at Rain Shadow Squared and on the Narwhal (a great celery shrub, a happy byproduct of making soda, flavors cocktails at Walrus and the Carpenter). She’s on the hunt for a production facility so she can bottle her wares, and her next project will be a really good root beer. Stay tuned.