A French bistro menu, a fleet of crisp-white-shirted waiters, and a bubbling crowd greet diners in this fourth iteration of the minimalist cement--walled space on the Madrona strip. It’s the best iteration yet. The reason? The steak-frites lineup, offering five cuts of meat up the ladder of price points with a choice of four sauces—a swell match to how the Madrona mix of families and young professionals want to eat. (No need to venture beyond the $21 hanger steak, btw; it’s plenty tender and flavorful.) Beyond that, the Ethan Stowell quality control in the kitchen is amply evident across charcuterie, Euro appetizers (check out the lush goat cheese–mushroom tartine), frisky salads, bistro entrees (including a fat burger on a firm potato bun), and vegetal sides. Even those cement walls warm up under the influence of galvanized tables and twinkling candles, and a most cheerful neighborhood bar.  1423 34th Ave, Madrona, 206-454-7932  ethanstowellrestaurants.com