Remember Roy’s Barbecue in Columbia City? One of this city’s great joints, Roy’s was about six feet across at its widest point, its walls plastered with quirky Americana, its kitchen wafting aromas of Andouille red beans and mac and cheese that drew folks in from off the sidewalk.
But the legend at Roy’s, the specialty this city hasn’t stopped mourning since its closure in 2011, was its Georgia Gold sandwich. A Columbia City Bakery roll packed full of savory pulled pork, drenched in a fiery barbecue sauce notable for its sweet mustard flavor, and cole slaw too. Stuff of dreams.
So when I found it resurrected, in slightly amended form across the street at Lottie’s Lounge, I got seriously giddy. Same crisped bun, same crisp cole slaw, same extraordinary sauce—same drips all over my good shirt. But now instead of fatty chunks of pork shoulder, it’s packed with slices of lean house-smoked pork loin. Renamed Columbia City Gold—it’s Georgia on a reduction plan.
How is it? I won’t lie to you: I missed the wicked unctuousness of the Georgia. Loin ain’t shoulder, no matter how you cut it. Still, for those whose regimens require more virtuous cuts, or for those who can’t remember the Georgia for comparison purposes, or for those who simply have leaner taste in sandwiches—the Columbia City Gold rocks. It’s that sauce. That amazing palate-throbber of a sauce.