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Oxtail at LloydMartin


One of the finds of year was the urbane Queen Anne nosherie with the weird name, LloydMartin, where owner-chef Sam Crannell could no doubt turn cardboard into tantalizing dinner. Off a changing menu of small plates he dazzled us primarily with meats; of those, primarily with oxtail, that gelatinous offal that falls into soft clumps on the plate and tastes like good beef, only richer.

I’ve loved it in two preparations, and since I couldn’t decide between them (and they may not be repeated anyway) I’ll list them both: a sumptuous cavatelli pasta with oxtail, chanterelles, and plenty of oxtail jus; and a piece of glistening foie gras nestled atop a mound of oxtail meat fragrant with shallots.

Wow. Just wow.

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