Lately, when it comes to Ethan Stowell, the conversation inevitably orbits around Staple and Fancy Mercantile, his just-opened Ballard restaurant. But it’s his previous venture, the stunner Anchovies and Olives, that today gives us cause to talk up the Seattle toque.
third fourth establishment (the since-departed Union, How to Cook a Wolf, and Tavolàta came first) is among Bon Appétit‘s "10 Best New Restaurants in America," a list released in the AM of August 18. In its description, the glossy lauds Stowell’s geoduck crudo, mackerel, and seared prawn preparations, and declares: In a city full of outstanding seafood restaurants, Anchovies & Olives is arguably the best. "Less is more" seems to be the theme here—from the 40-seat space (with a beautiful open kitchen) to the pared-down menu that’s divided into two sections: crudo and plates (entrees). What’s more, nothing is priced over $16.
This isn’t the first time A & O has been favored by far-flung critics. GQ ’s Alan Richman deemed it among the nation’s 10 finest to open in 2009, and in February Anchovies was named a James Beard semifinalist for best newbie (and Stowell a finalist for Best Chef Northwest).